Photo Booth

Andre D. Wagner’s Eye for the Photo-Ready

安德烈·D·瓦格纳的镜头:捕捉随时上镜的瞬间
Wagner knows the special alchemy that can happen when you point a camera at a Black person on the street.
瓦格纳深知,当你把相机对准街头的黑人时,会发生一种奇妙的化学反应。
A young boy on a bike looks at a camera.
Photographs by Andre D. Wagner

There is a moment I often recall that defines, for me, the ambition and affection that live in equal measure within the work of Andre D. Wagner. We were sitting together in a car, waiting at a stoplight, somewhere in one of the Carolinas, in 2019. A publication had come up with the idea of pairing a writer and a photographer for a week to explore a region of the country, then use whatever was gathered, between them, to tell a story. Wagner and I had never met before doing this assignment together. We’d done fairly well taking turns at the wheel, but on this particular day he had assumed most of the driving duties, a fact I must admit because it makes the moment in question more spectacular.

有一个时刻我时常想起,它定义了安德烈·D·瓦格纳作品中同等分量的雄心与深情。那是2019年,我们坐在一辆车里,在卡罗来纳某州的一个红绿灯前等待。一家刊物想出一个点子:把一位作家和一位摄影师配对,用一周时间探索美国某个地区,然后用两人各自收集到的素材讲一个故事。瓦格纳和我在做这个任务之前从未见过面。我们轮流开车配合得还不错,但那天他承担了大部分驾驶任务——我必须承认这一点,因为这让接下来要说的那个时刻更加精彩。

In the few seconds before the light changed, a group of young Black boys rode up alongside us on motorbikes. They sat piled two per bike, some with their shirts off, delighting in the gentle warmth of autumn on the horizon. Wagner, with one hand on the wheel, getting ready to drive off when the light turned green, aimed his camera toward the kids. And they, previously indifferent to our presence, became even more lively for the camera, throwing their hands up, smiling wide. It was a split second. It felt slow only because the camera existed within it, a vessel that freezes time but which, when in action, can also slow time.

在信号灯变换前的几秒钟里,一群黑人小男孩骑着摩托车停到我们旁边。他们每辆车坐两个人,有的光着上身,享受着天边秋日的温柔暖意。瓦格纳一只手搭在方向盘上,准备绿灯一亮就开走,另一只手把相机对准了孩子们。而他们,原本对我们的存在毫不在意,此刻却因为镜头而变得更加活跃,高举双手,咧嘴大笑。那只是一瞬间的事。它之所以显得缓慢,仅仅是因为相机的存在——相机是凝固时间的容器,但在运转时,也能让时间慢下来。
A staircase that leads to an aboveground train station.
Untitled, Bushwick, Brooklyn, 2014.
无题,布鲁克林布什维克,2014年。
Two young teenagers smile at a camera.
Untitled, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn, 2015.
无题,布鲁克林贝德福德-斯图维森特,2015年。

I love the image that resulted from that interaction. I remember talking to Wagner about it, and him sharing something with me that I’ve thought about ever since: the idea that Black people are often photo-ready. Photo-eager. We’ve already got fly, we already believe ourselves to be fly: why shouldn’t someone want to take our photo? The boy holds on to the bare shoulders of the slightly larger boy on the front of a bike before it peels off. Why wouldn’t someone want to take their photo? The person listening to music through headphones and dancing in a universe made by and for them and no one else. The person crossing the street carrying shopping bags, wearing sunglasses, a bandana, and a shirt with the words “BLACK JOY” blazoned across the front. When you point a camera at a Black person on the street, Wagner told me, the response, in so many cases, is one of embrace—of wanting to become a part of the archive, the archive of what the foolish might call the mundane, but we know better.

我喜欢那次互动中诞生的那张照片。我记得和瓦格纳聊起它,他跟我分享了一个我至今仍在思考的观点:黑人往往是随时准备好上镜的,甚至是渴望上镜的。我们本来就很酷,我们本来就相信自己很酷:怎么会有人不想拍我们呢?那个男孩紧紧抓住前座稍大男孩裸露的肩膀,摩托车即将飞驰而去。怎么会有人不想拍他们呢?那个戴着耳机听音乐、在一个只属于自己、为自己而造的宇宙里跳舞的人。那个拎着购物袋过马路的人,戴着墨镜,系着头巾,T恤上赫然印着“BLACK JOY”(黑人的快乐)。瓦格纳告诉我,当你把相机对准街头的黑人时,在太多情况下,对方的回应是拥抱——是想要成为档案的一部分,成为那些愚蠢之人所谓的“日常”档案的一部分,但我们心里清楚那远不止日常。
A young boy looks out the window of a restaurant.
Untitled, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn, 2014.
无题,布鲁克林贝德福德-斯图维森特,2014年。

Wagner is exceptional at capturing tenderness. Looking through his photos, I feel aware that tenderness is not something you extract from others; it’s not something that operates as an exchange. People have to offer it to you. The photographs of his that I’m most deeply moved by show moments of profound, quiet interpersonal intimacy, the kind of interpersonal intimacy that you might take for granted if you are sharing it with someone you feel certain might love you forever. My favorite example shows a couple standing in front of a MetroCard machine in New York City. The photo was taken in 2020, and it seems like the world is shocked into a kind of stillness. The face of one subject is somewhat obscured, turned away from the camera. The other person, her eyes narrowed, leans her face into the towering, curly Afro of her partner, who rests a hand on her rear end. It looks as if she is slipping into a dream. I love this photo of the couple for their expression of affection toward each other, and I love how that affection presses up against the world—the stillness of the world, the distance of the world. Maybe they’re going places. Maybe they aren’t. Maybe the sidewalk has become theirs, their own universe, which no one else can access.

瓦格纳极其擅长捕捉温柔。翻看他的照片,我意识到温柔不是你能从别人身上榨取的东西;它不是一种交换。人们必须主动把它献给你。他最打动我的那些照片,展现的是深沉而安静的人际亲密时刻——那种如果你确信对方会永远爱你,你可能会习以为常的亲密。我最喜欢的例子是一对情侣站在纽约市的一台地铁卡售票机前。照片摄于2020年,整个世界仿佛被震入一种静止。其中一人的脸部分被遮挡,转向镜头之外。另一个人眯着眼睛,把脸埋进伴侣高耸的卷曲爆炸头里,对方一只手搭在她的臀部。她看起来像是滑入了一场梦。我喜欢这张情侣照,喜欢他们彼此表达爱意的方式,也喜欢那份爱意如何与整个世界相抵——世界的静止,世界的距离。也许他们正要出发去某个地方。也许不是。也许人行道已经变成了他们的领地,他们自己的宇宙,无人能够进入。
A couple embraces outside on a city street.
Untitled, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn, 2020.
无题,布鲁克林贝德福德-斯图维森特,2020年。

I love Wagner’s photos of these tender human interactions, because they provide more questions than answers, which is a gift of the still image. You don’t need to know anyone pictured; you don’t need to know their stories. You can project whatever you imagine onto what you’re being offered. This, I think, is what Gordon Parks meant when he said that the content of a photograph should be determined by “the heart, not the eye.” The eye sees an image; the heart sees a story.

我喜欢瓦格纳这些温柔人际互动的照片,因为它们提供的问题多于答案,这是静态影像的馈赠。你不需要认识画面中的任何人;你不需要知道他们的故事。你可以把自己想象的一切投射到眼前所见的画面上。我想,这就是戈登·帕克斯所说的:照片的内容应该由“心,而不是眼”来决定。眼睛看到的是图像;心看到的是故事。
A young girl who is holding a small American flag stands in front of display case.
Untitled, Bushwick, Brooklyn, 2014.
无题,布鲁克林布什维克,2014年。
A girl who wears a hijab whispers to another girl outside.
Untitled, Bushwick, Brooklyn, 2015.
无题,布鲁克林布什维克,2015年。

Perhaps there’s another truth tucked under the truth of camera-readiness that Wagner shared with me that day: we always look kind of cool, our angles are deeply known to us, and we walk into the world waiting for someone to illuminate them. We don’t have to be told that we are fly, but it doesn’t hurt to get some confirmation, by way of a camera pointing in our direction. In another favorite photo, a young Black sailor blows smoke into the air. He is wearing the attire of someone who has just finished naval basic training—a white sailor’s suit. He’s looking straight ahead, a slight smirk on his face, the smoke largely obscuring the faces of his peers next to him. The smoke is as much a character in the photo as the man himself. It’s like a magic trick, the smoke brings the subject further into focus. And it’s such a nonchalant gesture, something you might see every day on city blocks. But you’ve not seen this specific person, in this specific corner of the world. You maybe haven’t seen someone who knows he is fly, even fresh out of a military program that strives to make you shed that which makes you unique. It is beautiful, this photo. It captures all of our flyness, in opposition to a world that tries to dull its shine.

也许在瓦格纳那天跟我分享的“镜头就绪”这个真相之下,还藏着另一个真相:我们看起来总是挺酷的,我们对自己的角度了如指掌,我们走进这个世界,等着有人来照亮这些角度。我们不需要别人告诉我们自己很酷,但有一台相机对准我们,给一点确认,也无妨。在另一张我钟爱的照片里,一个年轻的黑人水兵向空中吐着烟。他穿着刚完成海军基础训练的人会穿的衣服——一套白色水兵服。他直视前方,嘴角挂着一丝若有若无的笑,烟雾几乎遮住了身旁同伴的脸。烟雾在这张照片里和这个男人本人一样,是一个角色。就像魔术一样,烟雾让主体更加聚焦。那是一个如此漫不经心的姿态,你在城市的街头每天都能看到。但你从未见过这个特定的人,站在世界这个特定的角落。你也许从未见过一个知道自己很酷的人,哪怕他刚从一套竭力抹杀个性的军事训练中走出来。这张照片很美。它捕捉了我们所有的酷劲儿,对抗着一个试图磨灭其光芒的世界。

This is drawn from “Andre D. Wagner: New City, Old Blues.”

本文摘自《安德烈·D·瓦格纳:新城,旧蓝调》。
Three men in sailor uniforms blow smoke from their mouths.
Untitled, Manhattan, 2016.
无题,曼哈顿,2016年。

2 free previews left — register to get 30 translations a month