Profiles

How Jim Morrison Surmounted Tragedy and Skied Down Everest

吉姆·莫里森如何超越悲剧,从珠峰滑雪而下
The mountaineer and his partner, Hilaree Nelson, planned a first-ever descent. After her death, he pushed on.
这位登山家与伴侣希拉里·尼尔森计划完成一次史无前例的下降。在她遇难后,他继续前行。
这位登山家与搭档希拉里·尼尔森曾计划完成史上首次滑雪下撤。她去世后,他继续前行。
A person climbing a mountain.
Photographs by Jimmy Chin

Jim Morrison’s children finally appeared to him, seven years after their deaths, as he neared the summit of Mount Everest in the spring of 2018. He was climbing up the North Ridge, thirty minutes from the top, and he realized that they were alongside him, laughing and chattering in their familiar way. He began to laugh along with them, and then to cry.

2018年春天,吉姆·莫里森的孩子们在他接近珠穆朗玛峰顶峰时终于向他显现——此时距他们离世已过去七年。他正沿北脊攀登,距峰顶还有三十分钟,他意识到他们就在身旁,用他熟悉的方式笑着、叽叽喳喳地说着话。他开始和他们一起笑,然后哭了起来。

Since losing his wife and kids, he’d been expecting that they would somehow reveal themselves. At the seaside, in the woods, up in the high alpine, he searched for a sign. Fishing a river, he waited for his kids to come out of the water. He imagined returning home from work to flowers on the table, or to a light mysteriously turned on. “This was a dream, a hope, and a desire, and because it never happened it caused me incredible grief,” he told me recently. “I concocted my own beliefs about life and death, and—energy. Their energy, who they really were, isn’t, or wasn’t, their body, their physical form.”

自从失去妻子和孩子,他一直期待他们会以某种方式显现。在海边、在林中、在高山之上,他寻找着迹象。在河边钓鱼时,他等待孩子们从水中走出。他想象下班回家看到桌上摆着鲜花,或一盏灯神秘地亮着。“这是一个梦,一个希望,一个渴望,而因为它从未发生,它给我带来了难以言喻的悲伤,”他最近告诉我。“我编造了自己关于生死的信念,以及——能量。他们的能量,他们真正的本质,不是、也不曾是他们的身体,他们的物质形态。”

They had died when Jim’s wife, Katie Morrison, like him a pilot, was flying a single-engine turboprop Cessna, with the kids aboard—Wyatt, six, and Hannah, five—from Long Beach, California, to Henderson, Nevada, to visit a friend. A bad pocket of air over the desert caused the plane to plummet and crash.

他们死于吉姆的妻子凯蒂·莫里森——和他一样是飞行员——驾驶一架单引擎涡轮螺旋桨塞斯纳飞机时,孩子们在机上——六岁的怀亚特和五岁的汉娜——从加州长滩飞往内华达州亨德森,去拜访一位朋友。沙漠上空的一股恶劣气流导致飞机骤降坠毁。

Morrison, back home in Truckee, California, went to pieces. Each minute seemed impossible. The coroner strongly discouraged him from viewing the remains. His friends, most of them mountain people accustomed to untimely death, rallied around him. Sherry McConkey, whose husband, the freeskier Shane McConkey, had died a few years earlier, in a base-jumping accident, told me, “I was scared Jim would do something. I went to see him. He asked me, ‘What do I do?’ I said, ‘You’re fucked.’ ” She meant it as encouragement.

莫里森当时在加州特拉基的家中,整个人崩溃了。每一分钟都难以承受。验尸官极力劝阻他不要去看遗体。他的朋友们——大多是见惯了意外死亡的山地人——聚集在他身边。雪莉·麦康基的丈夫、自由滑雪运动员肖恩·麦康基几年前在一次低空跳伞事故中丧生,她告诉我:“我担心吉姆会做出什么事。我去看他。他问我,‘我该怎么办?’我说,‘你完蛋了。’”她的意思是鼓励。

I first met Morrison in Puerto Rico, in the fall of 2018, when he buttonholed me at an athletes’ summit hosted by the North Face, the outdoor-gear company; the theme of the retreat, faddishly, was “storytelling.” I had been invited to tell stories about telling stories. “Do you want to hear my story?” Morrison asked. I wasn’t prepared for it. I was used to tales of avalanches and fatal falls, where the victims were inevitably people who had chosen to take the risks. The thrust of his telling, though, was of his recovery, amid a renewed, almost fanatical commitment to his lofty ambitions as a climber and a skier. He had discovered, during a hike soon after the tragedy, that the exertion went well with his tears. Endorphins altered the intensity of his grief, turning it into a twisted kind of exultation. The mountains became his balm.

我第一次见到莫里森是在2018年秋天的波多黎各,当时他在户外装备公司北面举办的一次运动员峰会上拦住了我;那次静修的主题,颇为时髦地,是“讲故事”。我被邀请来讲关于讲故事的故事。“你想听听我的故事吗?”莫里森问。我毫无准备。我习惯了雪崩和致命坠落的故事,那些遇难者无一例外是主动选择冒险的人。但他讲述的核心是他的康复,伴随着对登山和滑雪崇高抱负的重新投入,几乎到了狂热的地步。悲剧发生后不久的一次徒步中,他发现身体的消耗与眼泪配合得很好。内啡肽改变了他悲伤的强度,将其转化为一种扭曲的狂喜。群山成了他的慰藉。

On an expedition to Makalu, an eight-thousand-metre peak in the Himalayas, in 2015, he met the mountaineer Hilaree Nelson, who was freshly estranged from her husband, and they soon became inseparable, as lovers and as expedition partners—beasts of a similar nature and ability. Just before the Puerto Rico trip, Morrison and Nelson had successfully completed the first-ever ski descent of the Lhotse Couloir, the so-called Dream Line, a steep and unrelenting route from the peak just south of Everest. Now they were savoring their accomplishment with Nelson’s two preteen sons. On the second night of the summit, a few hours after Morrison told me his story, the team of athletes sponsored by the North Face held a ceremony to crown Nelson its new captain—an acknowledgment that, even in this assemblage of adventure all-stars, she was essentially the M.V.P.

2015年,在一次前往喜马拉雅山脉八千米高峰马卡鲁峰的探险中,他遇到了登山家希拉里·尼尔森,她当时刚与丈夫分居,两人很快变得形影不离,既是恋人也是探险搭档——天性和能力都极为相似的猛兽。就在波多黎各之行前不久,莫里森和尼尔森成功完成了洛子峰沟槽——所谓的“梦想线路”——的首次滑雪下降,这是一条从珠峰南侧山峰直下的陡峭而毫不留情的路线。当时他们正与尼尔森的两个青春期前的儿子一起享受这一成就。在峰会的第二晚,莫里森给我讲完他的故事几个小时后,北面赞助的运动员团队举行仪式,加冕尼尔森为新任队长——这是对她在这一冒险全明星阵容中实质上是头号选手的认可。
People climbing a mountain.
Nelson and Morrison on Mount Tyree, in Antarctica, in 2020.
2020年,纳尔逊和莫里森在南极洲的泰里山上。

Not long afterward, Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi, fresh off winning the best-documentary Oscar for “Free Solo,” about the climber Alex Honnold, began shooting footage for a film about Nelson and Morrison—their lives together; their commitment to their craft, in spite of the risks and losses; and their project of all projects, a first-ever descent on skis of the north face of Everest. It was, as skiers say, the ultimate line, and something that Morrison had been dreaming about since he was a teen-ager.

不久之后,金国威和伊丽莎白·柴·瓦沙瑞莉——刚凭借关于攀岩者亚历克斯·霍诺德的《徒手攀岩》获得奥斯卡最佳纪录片奖——开始为一部关于尼尔森和莫里森的影片拍摄素材:他们的共同生活;他们对技艺的执着,尽管有风险和失去;以及他们所有计划中的终极计划——首次从珠峰北壁滑雪下降。正如滑雪者所说,这是终极线路,也是莫里森从少年时代起就一直在梦想的事。

The standard route up Everest is from the South Col, on the Nepal side; this is the source of those photos featuring long lines of snowsuited climbers gridlocked in the death zone. The north face is in Tibet, and the Chinese are strict about access. The route Morrison and Nelson had in mind, the Super Direct, via the Hornbein and Japanese Couloirs, has proved almost unclimbable, much less skiable. Only five people had ever reached the summit by that route. In such extreme terrain, a skier ideally wants to climb the line he is going to descend, to assess the snow. In 2002, a snowboarder named Marco Siffredi, who had ascended via another route, tried to descend the Hornbein. He dropped in and disappeared. His body was never found. No one had attempted it since.

登珠峰的标准路线是从尼泊尔一侧的南坳出发;那些照片中穿着雪服的长队堵在死亡地带的画面就来自这里。北壁在西藏境内,中国对进入管控严格。莫里森和尼尔森心仪的路线——“超级直达”,经由霍恩拜因沟槽和日本沟槽——已被证明几乎无法攀登,更不用说滑雪了。历史上只有五个人通过那条路线登顶。在如此极端的地形中,滑雪者理想情况下希望先攀登他将要下降的线路,以评估雪况。2002年,一位名叫马可·西弗雷迪的单板滑雪者从另一条路线登顶后,尝试从霍恩拜因下降。他切入雪面后消失了。他的遗体从未被找到。此后无人再尝试。

The route is steep (up to sixty degrees), exposed (most of it in the “you fall, you die” category), punishingly long (nine thousand vertical feet), and prone to hellish conditions. During the usual climbing season, in the spring, there isn’t enough snow to ski on. The Hornbein is a flute of stone, with a thin ribbon of ice and snow. In the fall, after the monsoon, there is too much snow; constant avalanches make it suicidal to attempt. But Morrison and Nelson deduced that there might be a slim window, before the arrival of winter, when the avalanches have abated, leaving a firmer surface—skiable, if you have the chops and the guts.

这条路线陡峭(坡度高达六十度)、暴露(大部分属于“摔了就死”的范畴)、漫长到令人难以忍受(垂直落差九千英尺),而且极易出现地狱般的状况。在通常的登山季——春季——雪量不足以滑雪。霍恩拜因是一条石质凹槽,只有一条薄薄的冰和雪带。秋季季风过后,雪又太多;持续的雪崩使任何尝试都等于自杀。但莫里森和尼尔森推断,在冬季到来之前,可能存在一个狭窄的窗口期,雪崩已经平息,留下更坚实的表面——如果你有技术和胆量,是可以滑的。

Morrison and Nelson had both. Each of them had previously been to the summit of Everest—Morrison in 2018 (he’d skied part of the way down), Nelson in 2012 (she also reached the summit of Lhotse in the same twenty-four hours, setting a record). The pandemic interfered, but they picked other peaks, rehearsing for Everest, with the filmmakers along for the ride. On a 2022 trip to Manaslu, in Nepal, the cameras were there, recording the moment when Nelson, two turns into her run, got swept up in an avalanche and went over a mountainside. They were also there in the ensuing hours and days, as Morrison and his Sherpa companions searched the enormous debris field for her corpse. The recovery mission, involving remote, unexplored terrain, a helicopter at extremely high altitude, and the constant threat of more avalanches from above, was as dangerous, perhaps, as anything these men had ever attempted. But they shared the conviction, unusual for mountaineers in such a hostile place, that they couldn’t leave without her.

莫里森和尼尔森两者兼备。他们各自都曾登顶珠峰——莫里森在2018年(他滑雪下降了一部分路程),尼尔森在2012年(她还在同一二十四小时内登顶了洛子峰,创下纪录)。疫情造成了干扰,但他们选择了其他山峰,为珠峰做演练,电影制作人一路随行。2022年去尼泊尔马纳斯鲁峰的行程中,摄像机就在那里,记录下了尼尔森在滑行两个转弯后被雪崩卷走、翻过山崖的那一刻。在随后的几个小时和几天里,摄像机也在场,记录莫里森和他的夏尔巴同伴在巨大的碎屑区搜寻她的遗体。这次搜寻行动涉及偏远、未经探索的地形、极高海拔的直升机作业,以及来自上方更多雪崩的持续威胁,其危险程度或许不亚于这些人尝试过的任何事情。但他们共同抱有一个信念——在如此险恶的地方,这对登山者来说很不寻常——他们不能丢下她离开。

“It was a profound, transformational moment for me to know that when I found Hilaree, she wasn’t in her body,” Morrison told me. “I dug her out of the snow. I held her in my arms. I screamed, and I cried, but it was just her dead body. She was no longer there, and it was as clear as anything has been in my entire lifetime. I had been haunted so much by my wife and my children, and what state they were in when the plane crashed, and how they were recovered. I had been haunted by these visions of their half-burned corpses. Then contrast that with what I went through with Hilaree. There was so much more finality to it.” Morrison had her body cremated in Kathmandu, at a Buddhist temple.

“当我找到希拉里时,知道她已不在自己的身体里,这对我来说是一个深刻的、具有转变意义的时刻,”莫里森告诉我。“我把她从雪里挖出来。我把她抱在怀里。我尖叫,我哭泣,但那只是她的尸体。她已经不在了,这一点在我一生中从未如此清晰。我一直被妻子和孩子们的影像所困扰——飞机坠毁时他们是什么状态,他们是如何被找到的。我一直被那些半烧焦尸体的幻象所困扰。然后与我和希拉里经历的一切形成对比。这件事有更多的终结感。”莫里森在加德满都的一座佛教寺庙将她的遗体火化。
Woman on couch talking to therapist.
“I had a happy childhood, but I was younger then.”
“我有个快乐的童年,但那时候我还小。”
Cartoon by Kaamran Hafeez and Al Batt
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The film project—and the Everest project—had changed. Cameras still rolling, Morrison, now doubly cursed, continued the quest without Nelson, while her boys, the ones I’d met in Puerto Rico, became motherless young men. It took three attempts, in the three years after Nelson’s death, to get it done. This is the heart of Chin and Vasarhelyi’s new film, “Everest: The Other Side,” which comes out this week.

电影项目——以及珠峰项目——已经改变。摄像机仍在运转,莫里森,如今背负双重诅咒,在没有尼尔森的情况下继续追寻,而她的孩子们——我在波多黎各见过的那两个男孩——成了失去母亲的年轻人。在尼尔森去世后的三年里,他花了三次尝试才完成。这就是金国威和瓦沙瑞莉的新片《珠峰:另一面》的核心内容,该片本周上映。

Perhaps a spoiler alert is in order, but the news did travel far and wide last fall. On October 15th, Morrison’s team put a dozen climbers, including Chin and several of his film crew, on the summit, more than tripling the historical total of Super Direct summiteers in a single push. This time, it was Hilaree, rather than Wyatt and Hannah, whose presence came to Morrison on top, amid the summiteers’ celebration. He scattered some of her ashes, clicked into his skis, then set off toward the Hornbein, on the least hospitable snow he’d ever encountered. He took four hours to descend. A World Cup downhill race is two minutes. It’s hard to contemplate the burn, or the concentration, or the work and time and luck and loss that went into the effort. Here was four hours alone with the task, and with the sense that, if he fell, he’d consider his life to have been well lived. At the bottom of the face, he wept and shouted, in the conviction that he’d done right by Nelson, and by himself. But it would be a while before Morrison could get his own head around the accomplishment. “It dawned on me at a rate of about one per cent per day, for a hundred days,” he said. “But it was pretty damn satisfying, and it still is.”

也许需要剧透警告,但这个消息去年秋天确实传遍了四方。10月15日,莫里森的团队将十几名登山者——包括金国威和他的几名摄制组成员——送上了顶峰,一次冲顶就将“超级直达”路线历史登顶总人数翻了三倍多。这一次,在顶峰庆祝的人群中,来到莫里森身边的是希拉里,而不是怀亚特和汉娜。他撒下她的一部分骨灰,扣上滑雪板,然后朝霍恩拜因出发,面对的是他遇到过的最不友好的雪况。他花了四个小时下降。一场世界杯速降赛是两分钟。很难想象那种灼烧感,那种专注力,以及投入其中的努力、时间、运气和失去。那是四个小时独自面对任务,带着一种感觉:如果他摔下去,他会认为自己的一生已经活得很好。在岩壁底部,他哭泣、呐喊,坚信自己对得起尼尔森,也对得起自己。但莫里森还需要一段时间才能真正理解这一成就。“它以每天大约百分之一的速度让我领悟,持续了一百天,”他说。“但那种满足感相当强烈,现在依然如此。”

Morrison has a house on Lake Tahoe, a trim three-bedroom that he renovated, stripping the drywall to expose stone walls and massive cedar beams. His friends call it the smallest house on the lake. Maybe so, but it’s good living. Glass doors open onto a patio, overstrung with prayer flags, a hot tub, a thin strip of lawn, and a dock. It was hard—looking out past the pier at the lake, with a full moon rising over Nevada—not to think of Michael Corleone, glowering in his parlor. While on Everest, freezing in his tent, Morrison watched “The Offer,” the TV series based on the making of “The Godfather.”

莫里森在太浩湖畔有一栋房子,一栋他翻修过的紧凑三居室,拆掉石膏板露出石墙和巨大的雪松梁。他的朋友们称之为湖上最小的房子。也许确实如此,但住起来很好。玻璃门通向一个露台,上面挂满经幡,有热水浴缸、一条窄窄的草坪和一座码头。望着湖面,满月在内华达州上空升起——很难不想到迈克尔·柯里昂在客厅里阴沉着脸的样子。在珠峰上,在帐篷里冻着的时候,莫里森看了《参与其中》,那部根据《教父》拍摄过程改编的电视剧。

When I stayed with him one weekend last month, he also had as visitors Rob DesLauriers and his girlfriend, Merrill Joy. DesLauriers was one of the most prominent extreme skiers of my generation, a film star who also skied Everest via the South Pillar route, in a campaign, with his then wife Kit, to ski each continent’s highest peak, the so-called Seven Summits. (Jimmy Chin skied Everest with them.) DesLauriers, now a real-estate developer in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, officiated at the wedding of Chin and Vasarhelyi, in 2013. He was in town for a weekend of golf with his brothers.

上个月的一个周末我住在他家时,他还有两位客人:罗布·德斯劳里尔斯和他的女友梅里尔·乔伊。德斯劳里尔斯是我这一代最著名的极限滑雪运动员之一,一位电影明星,他也曾通过南柱路线滑雪下珠峰,那是在他和当时的妻子基特一起进行的“七大洲最高峰”滑雪计划中。(金国威和他们一起滑了珠峰。)德斯劳里尔斯现在是怀俄明州杰克逊霍尔的房地产开发商,他在2013年为金国威和瓦沙瑞莉主持了婚礼。他当时来镇上和兄弟们打一个周末的高尔夫。

“For a guy who doesn’t drink, that’s a pretty great bar,” DesLauriers said, pointing to a table stocked with fine liquor. Morrison, who is fifty-one, generally avoids alcohol, but he likes house guests, and host gifts. He’s tall and muscular, like an N.F.L. tight end, ruddy, rarely without a ball cap on a mostly hairless dome. He’d got a partial knee replacement four months before he went to Everest. During my visit, he had a deep cough that I mistook for a high-altitude croup, but it was just a whatever-phlegm, from weeks of glad-handing and travel for the film. He’d recently been the maid of honor at the wedding of the pro freeskier Michelle Parker. Friends say that in his younger years he was intimidatingly aloof, but now he has a serene, almost saintly air of self- possession—the product, one surmises, of calamity and achievement.

“对一个不喝酒的人来说,这酒吧相当不错了,”德斯劳里尔斯指着一张摆满好酒的桌子说。莫里森五十一岁,一般不喝酒,但他喜欢留宿客人,也喜欢客人带来的礼物。他高大健壮,像NFL的近端锋,面色红润,几乎光秃的头顶上总戴着一顶棒球帽。他去珠峰前四个月做了部分膝关节置换。我拜访期间,他咳嗽得很厉害,我误以为是高海拔哮吼,但那只是某种痰咳,来自几周来为电影四处应酬和奔波。他最近在职业自由滑雪运动员米歇尔·帕克的婚礼上担任了伴娘。朋友们说,他年轻时冷漠得令人望而生畏,但现在他有一种宁静的、近乎圣徒般的从容——人们猜测,这是灾难和成就的产物。

Large-format mountain photos hung on the walls around the house, but there were no photos of Morrison except for a small one by the kitchen sink of him and Chin, on the back of which Chin had written, “The Rest is Gravy. Everest ’25.” It was taken at the Rongbuk Monastery, in Tibet, the highest in the world. They stopped there, briefly, thirty-six hours after the descent. They had a flight to catch, and their Chinese minders were upset that Morrison wanted to linger at the monastery and light candles. “But I just skied the north face of Everest, so I can do what I want,” he told me. The monk inside, serving tea, seemed to recognize him and led him into the main monastery, a rare privilege, to meet the head lama, who, seeing Morrison, said, “Summit!” and mimicked with his arms the act of skiing.

大幅山地照片挂在房子各处的墙上,但没有莫里森本人的照片,只有厨房水槽旁一张他和金国威的小合影,背面金国威写着:“剩下的都是 gravy。珠峰25年。”照片摄于西藏的绒布寺,世界上海拔最高的寺院。他们在下降后三十六小时在那里短暂停留。他们要赶飞机,中国方面的陪同人员对莫里森想在寺院逗留点蜡烛感到不满。“但我刚刚从珠峰北壁滑下来,所以我想做什么就做什么,”他告诉我。寺内奉茶的僧人似乎认出了他,领他进入主殿——这是罕见的礼遇——去见大喇嘛,喇嘛看到莫里森,说:“登顶!”并用双臂模仿滑雪的动作。

“The Sherpa telephone,” DesLauriers said. “They always know everything.”

“夏尔巴电话,”德斯劳里尔斯说。“他们什么都知道。”

“We’d been focussed on this goal for six years,” Morrison said. “ ‘The rest is gravy,’ we kept saying. Then we came home, and I realized I wish I was at eight thousand metres again, trying to light the stove, just wondering if I could get this lighter lit.” Gravy, apparently, consisted of travelling, repeating himself in Q. & A.s, and meeting celebrities, to promote the film and the feat.

“我们专注于这个目标已经六年了,”莫里森说。“‘剩下的都是 gravy,’我们一直这么说。然后我们回到家,我意识到我希望自己还在八千米的高度,试着点炉子,只是想着能不能把这个打火机点着。”Gravy,显然,包括四处奔波、在问答环节重复自己、见名人,为电影和壮举做宣传。
A person holding a walkie talkie.
Morrison in camp below the north face of Everest.
莫里森在珠峰北壁下方的营地。

All he really wanted to do was go rock climbing. On Saturday morning, we met up with a bunch of his local friends at a gas station and headed up to a lesser-known crag. “It’s my favorite place here,” he said. The trailhead was twenty minutes up a rutted jeep track, through a creek and a pine forest. Forty-five minutes of hiking later, we were up on a ballroom floor of glacially smoothed granite which met a near-vertical wall some five stories tall. Jim Zellers, a pioneer of big-mountain snowboarding and a friend of Morrison’s for almost four decades, had for several years been bolting new routes on this face, refining and naming and grading. These days, Zellers stages events for the North Face; a few weeks before, he’d had the climbing team here for its annual meeting, but made the climbers promise not to identify the wall in their social-media posts. The others with us that morning were Sherry McConkey; Morrison’s frequent climbing partner Emi Kawakita, a Japanese Swedish woman from Stockholm; Shelton Gregory, a local contractor; Zellers; and Nick Russell, a professional snowboarder, who was leaving in two days for an expedition in Nepal. I trundled along, making excuses about not having climbing shoes, or any vestige of an abdominal core.

他真正想做的只是去攀岩。周六早上,我们和一群他的当地朋友在一个加油站碰头,然后前往一处不太知名的岩壁。“这是我在这一带最喜欢的地方,”他说。步道起点在一条车辙纵横的吉普车道上开二十分钟,穿过一条小溪和一片松林。徒步四十五分钟后,我们来到一片冰川磨光的巨大花岗岩平台上,平台连接着一面约五层楼高的近垂直岩壁。吉姆·泽勒斯,大山单板滑雪的先驱,也是莫里森近四十年的朋友,几年来一直在这面岩壁上打新路线,打磨、命名、定级。如今泽勒斯为北面组织活动;几周前,他带攀岩队来这里开年会,但要求攀岩者承诺不在社交媒体上标注这面岩壁的位置。那天早上和我们一起的还有雪莉·麦康基;莫里森经常的攀岩搭档埃米·川北,一位来自斯德哥尔摩的日裔瑞典女性;谢尔顿·格雷戈里,当地承包商;泽勒斯;还有尼克·拉塞尔,职业单板滑雪运动员,两天后要出发去尼泊尔探险。我慢吞吞地跟着,找借口说没有攀岩鞋,也没有任何腹肌核心的痕迹。

They paired up and warmed up on some less challenging pitches and then got to work trying to climb a route that had occupied their attention for months, called Jazz Hands, a 5.12b. “It’s the hardest I’ve ever done,” Morrison said. “It’s got it all.”

他们两两配对,在一些较简单的线路上热身,然后开始尝试一条占据他们注意力数月之久的路线,名叫“爵士手”,难度5.12b。“这是我爬过的最难的,”莫里森说。“它什么都有。”

“It’s fifty-seven moves,” Gregory said.

“一共五十七个动作,”格雷戈里说。

“I lie awake at night thinking about it.”

“我晚上躺在床上都在想它。”

“Me, too!” Gregory said. Picture Tahoe City’s middle-aged men, wide-eyed in the should-I-pee hour, shadow-climbing the same fifty-seven moves on the same granite face.

“我也是!”格雷戈里说。想象一下太浩市的中年男人们,在“该不该起夜”的时辰睁大眼睛,在脑海中攀爬同一面花岗岩上的同样五十七个动作。

Gregory cued up some music on a speaker: a playlist (psychedelic cumbia) that he’d been spinning all summer, to the mounting annoyance of the others. It gave the proceedings a comic timbre. These hale adventurers lounging around an amphitheatre of granite: one could imagine they had it all figured out. They had modest but beautiful homes, gainful employment, health, free time, outdoor escapades. Then again, a quarter of their cohort was dead.

格雷戈里在音箱上放起了音乐:一个他整个夏天都在放的播放列表(迷幻昆比亚),其他人越来越烦。这给整个过程增添了一种喜剧色彩。这些健壮的冒险家懒洋洋地围坐在花岗岩的圆形剧场里:人们可以想象他们已经把一切都想明白了。他们有朴素而美丽的家、有收入的工作、健康、自由时间、户外冒险。但话说回来,他们这个群体中有四分之一的人已经死了。

Soon it was Morrison’s turn on Jazz Hands, with Gregory belaying from the ground. He put on his shoes and chalked up.

很快轮到莫里森爬“爵士手”,格雷戈里在地面做保护。他穿上鞋,抹上镁粉。

“Today’s four years,” he said, half to the others, half to himself. His friends knew without his saying more that he meant it was the fourth anniversary of Hilaree Nelson’s death. “It’s Hil Day,” he said.

“今天四年了,”他说,半是对其他人,半是对自己。他的朋友们不用他多说就知道,他指的是希拉里·尼尔森去世四周年。“今天是希拉里日,”他说。

“Shane died on a twenty-sixth, too,” McConkey said. “So did Kip and Allison.”

“肖恩也是在二十六号走的,”麦康基说。“基普和艾莉森也是。”

“Sketchy day,” Morrison said. He put his hands on the rock. “Let’s see if I can manage not to fall.” He reddened with effort.

“不吉利的日子,”莫里森说。他把手放在岩石上。“看看我能不能不摔。”他因用力而涨红了脸。

“When you do something really hard, it clears the brain,” McConkey said to me. “That’s why Jim is climbing mountains. We hold him. They held me. Everyone here is part of that death clan, which is pretty cool to have around you.”

“当你做一件真正困难的事时,它会清空大脑,”麦康基对我说。“这就是吉姆在爬山的原因。我们支撑着他。他们也支撑过我。这里的每个人都是那个死亡部落的一部分,身边有这样的人挺好的。”

The crag was in the shade. A crisp wind brought an autumnal chill. Everyone wore down puffers, which they took off when it was time to climb. Morrison had lent me one, and after a while I put my hands in the pockets. In the left one I felt a vial. Drugs? No. It was Hilaree—the last of her ashes, the rest having been scattered at the summit of Everest, a year before. I gave the vial to Morrison, and he walked over to a patch of brown grass at the base of Jazz Hands and, without any fuss or pomp, scattered the remainder of the ashes.

岩壁在阴凉处。一阵清冽的风带来秋日的寒意。每个人都穿着羽绒服,到攀爬时再脱掉。莫里森借了我一件,过了一会儿我把手插进口袋。在左边口袋里我摸到一个小瓶。毒品?不是。是希拉里——她最后的骨灰,其余的已在一年前撒在珠峰之巅。我把小瓶递给莫里森,他走到“爵士手”底部的一小片枯草旁,没有任何仪式或排场,把剩余的骨灰撒了出去。
Witch introducing other witches to beer brewer while they all stand around bubbling cauldron.
“Our next brew will be a collab with the chill dudes over at Long River Aleworks.”
“我们下一批酿的酒,会跟长河艾尔工坊那帮随性的哥们儿联名。”
Cartoon by Lars Kenseth
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When Chin and Vasarhelyi’s film screened at the Telluride Film Festival, in Colorado, last month, The Hollywood Reporter published a withering review, calling it “a portrait of two reckless, ruthlessly self-involved people.” It referred to the climbers’ rationales as “selfish pablum” and to their “stunts” as “callous and cruel,” in light of Nelson’s leaving behind two children. (Chin was risking doing so, too.) Certainly, it is gutting, knowing what we know, to see Nelson onscreen addressing the possibility of death, and insisting on her right to pursue her ambitions. In the film, Vasarhelyi expresses dismay that her husband—the father of their two kids—is signing on for the Everest expedition, especially after so many of their friends have died.

上个月,金国威和瓦沙瑞莉的影片在科罗拉多州特柳赖德电影节放映时,《好莱坞报道》发表了一篇尖刻的评论,称其为“两个鲁莽、冷酷自私之人的肖像”。评论将登山者的理由称为“自私的废话”,将他们的“特技”称为“冷酷而残忍”,因为尼尔森留下了两个孩子。(金国威也在冒同样的风险。)诚然,知道了我们所知道的一切,在银幕上看到尼尔森谈论死亡的可能性,并坚持自己追求抱负的权利,令人心碎。在影片中,瓦沙瑞莉对丈夫——他们两个孩子的父亲——报名参加珠峰探险表示惊愕,尤其是在他们那么多朋友已经遇难之后。

“Let’s look at what the loss actually looks like,” she told me, regarding her intentions as a filmmaker. “I think about agency a lot. I have agency. Jimmy has agency. But the kids don’t.” (She and Chin are now getting divorced.)

“让我们看看失去到底是什么样子,”她告诉我,谈到她作为电影人的意图。“我经常思考自主权的问题。我有自主权。吉米有自主权。但孩子们没有。”(她和金国威现在正在离婚。)

Still, maybe these people aren’t reckless, any more than, say, astronauts might be, nor are they necessarily more callous toward their offspring than the law partner who works eighty-hour weeks or the celebrated artist who cycles through five wives. They’re adventurers, pioneers, limit testers, outliers, freaks. They are attempting to do the dangerous thing safely, as well as elegantly and uniquely, both for a living and for the nourishment of their souls. Their nutrients may not be yours. “To die is bad style,” a climber once told me. It is also inevitable. “There’s a cost to not taking risks, too,” Chin told me. “You can sit on your couch and eat chips until you have a coronary.”

不过,也许这些人并不鲁莽,就像宇航员未必鲁莽一样,他们也不一定比每周工作八十小时的律所合伙人或换过五任妻子的著名艺术家对自己的孩子更冷酷。他们是冒险家、开拓者、极限测试者、异类、怪胎。他们试图安全地、优雅地、独一无二地完成危险的事情,既为了谋生,也为了滋养灵魂。他们的养分未必是你的。“死是坏品味,”一位登山者曾对我说。死亡也是不可避免的。“不冒险也有代价,”金国威告诉我。“你可以坐在沙发上吃薯片,直到心脏病发作。”

Morrison has two professional careers and has thrived in both. He’s a skier and a home builder. These have more in common than you’d think, insofar as the culture of skiing has become the pretext for (and pretense behind) the kinds of houses he builds, and the kinds of clients he builds them for. As rugged mountain villages became, in the second half of the twentieth century, hubs of adventure sport—skiing, climbing, biking—they began to attract ever greater wealth. The dirtbags kicked off the cycle that eventually brought the new mega-West of log mansions, heated parking lots, and ersatz Frederic Remington oil paintings. The Rockies and the Pacific ranges are now latticed with ultra-fancy resort towns, with colossal lodge-like houses and high-end restaurants and shops. In the Lake Tahoe area, spread out as it is, the displays of extreme wealth may seem more diffuse than in the valley confines of Telluride, Aspen, and Jackson Hole. Still, they are abundant. The tech billions flow uphill from the Bay Area. The hills are alive with the sound of nail guns.

莫里森有两个职业,而且在两个领域都做得很好。他是滑雪者,也是房屋建造商。这两者的共同点比你想的要多,因为滑雪文化已经成为他建造的房屋类型以及他为之建造的客户类型的借口(和伪装)。随着粗犷的山村在二十世纪下半叶成为冒险运动——滑雪、攀岩、骑行——的中心,它们开始吸引越来越多的财富。穷光蛋们开启了循环,最终带来了新的超级西部:原木豪宅、加热停车场和仿制的弗雷德里克·雷明顿油画。落基山脉和太平洋山脉现在布满了超豪华的度假小镇,有巨大的木屋式住宅、高端餐厅和商店。在太浩湖地区,由于地域分散,极端财富的展示可能比特柳赖德、阿斯彭和杰克逊霍尔的山谷局限中显得更加弥散。但它们依然丰富。科技财富从湾区向上流动。山丘上回荡着射钉枪的声音。

Many ski bums who stuck around became local grandees. The life style they personified served as advertising, in the way that artists and gay people colonize derelict urban neighborhoods and make them alluring to gentrifiers. The outdoor-apparel companies, by sponsoring athletes and films and catalogue shoots, converted derring-do into marketing fodder for developers and Realtors. Morrison has been on the front end and the back end, working the golden goose from tip to tail. He reckons that he has built about a hundred luxury homes in the area.

许多留下来的滑雪流浪汉成了当地的头面人物。他们所代表的生活方式起到了广告的作用,就像艺术家和同性恋者占领衰败的城市社区,使其对绅士化者产生吸引力一样。户外服装公司通过赞助运动员、电影和产品目录拍摄,将大胆行为转化为开发商和房地产经纪人的营销素材。莫里森既在前端也在后端,从头到尾地利用这只下金蛋的鹅。他估计自己在这一带建了大约一百栋豪宅。

Morrison was born in Pittsburgh but reared in Walnut Creek, California, a suburb in the East Bay. His father was an electrical engineer at Westinghouse. Morrison caught the mountain bug when he was twelve, at the local gear store, Sunrise Mountaineering; his mother, a manager at a law firm, was buying him a water bottle and some hiking boots for a Boy Scout backpacking trip. He was transfixed by the climbing tools hanging from the walls, and by the photographs of the store’s owners scaling snowy peaks in Alaska. He did a little research and learned that people climbed on Mount Diablo, nearby. “I went to the store and talked to the employees there and read books and learned about it,” Morrison said. “And eventually I got to Mount Diablo, and I set up my own top rope, with my own equipment, with nobody else. And I did my own rappels.” He practiced out of his bathroom window, on the second floor of the family tract house. “I made an anchor on my toilet. Now I’m a contractor—you realize that a toilet is fastened by two little bolts. It’s basically just sitting there.”

莫里森出生在匹兹堡,但在加州东湾的核桃溪长大。他的父亲是西屋电气的电气工程师。莫里森十二岁时在当地户外用品店“日出登山”染上了山瘾;他的母亲是一家律所的经理,当时在给他买一个水壶和一双徒步靴,为童子军背包旅行做准备。他被墙上挂着的攀岩工具迷住了,也被店主们在阿拉斯加攀登雪峰的照片迷住了。他做了一点研究,得知附近魔鬼山有人攀岩。“我去店里和店员聊,读书,学习,”莫里森说。“最终我到了魔鬼山,自己架设了顶绳,用自己的装备,没有别人。我自己做了绳降。”他在家里联排别墅二楼的浴室窗外练习。“我在马桶上做了个锚点。现在我是承包商了——你会意识到马桶只靠两个小螺栓固定。它基本上就是放在那里。”
Close up of a person.
Nelson, with Morrison, had successfully completed the first-ever ski descent of the Lhotse Couloir, a steep and unrelenting route from the peak just south of Everest.
纳尔逊与莫里森成功完成了洛子峰陡槽的首次滑雪下撤,这条路线陡峭险峻、毫不留情,起点就在珠峰正南方的峰顶。

On weekends, he skied at Lake Tahoe, first at Alpine Meadows, then on the mogul team at Squaw Valley (which was renamed Palisades Tahoe six years ago). Like many groms of his generation, he had a V.H.S. copy of the Greg Stump ski film “The Blizzard of Aahhh’s,” and watched it every day for a year. The summer after his junior year of high school, he arranged to go to New Zealand for a mogul camp. To raise the necessary funds—he wasn’t earning enough in his job, as a stock boy in the women’s-shoe department at Nordstrom—he biked around Walnut Creek with a stencil kit and offered to repaint residents’ sun-faded addresses on the curbs in front of their houses, at ten bucks a pop. After a showdown with the president of a homeowners’ association, he finagled a contract to do the whole subdivision, which got him the sum he needed for the trip. “My parents, while I was gone, read my yearbook and saw all these notes from friends that were, like, ‘We should do bongs this summer,’ ” Morrison said. “And they were, like, ‘What the heck is happening? Who are you? What is wrong with you?’ ”

周末,他在太浩湖滑雪,先是在阿尔派恩梅多斯,然后在斯阔谷的猫跳队(六年前更名为帕利塞兹太浩)。和许多他那一代的小屁孩一样,他有一盘格雷格·斯坦普滑雪电影《啊哈暴风雪》的录像带,整整一年每天看。高二暑假,他安排去新西兰参加猫跳训练营。为了筹集所需费用——他在诺德斯特龙女鞋部做理货员挣得不够——他骑着自行车在核桃溪转悠,带着一套模板工具,提出帮居民重新粉刷门前路缘上被阳光晒褪色的门牌号,每次十美元。在与一个业主委员会主席对峙之后,他设法拿到了整个小区的合同,凑够了旅行所需的钱。“我不在的时候,我父母翻了我的年鉴,看到朋友们写的各种留言,比如‘今年夏天我们应该抽水烟’,”莫里森说。“他们就说,‘到底怎么回事?你是谁?你有什么毛病?’”

What was really wrong with him, though, was that he had begun to cultivate the idea of climbing and then skiing down the world’s biggest mountains. He already had eyes for the north face of Everest and the Hornbein Couloir. He dropped out of college, moved to Chamonix, France, the epicenter of alpinism, and began to level up, knocking off semi-obscure first descents in order to make a name for himself. He was competing on the international extreme-skiing tour and was sponsored by some of the top gear companies. Then, his second winter there, he blew out a knee.

但他真正的问题在于,他已经开始酝酿攀登然后滑雪下降世界最大山峰的想法。他早已盯上了珠峰北壁和霍恩拜因沟槽。他从大学退学,搬到法国霞慕尼——登山运动的中心——开始升级,完成一些半冷门的首降来为自己打响名号。他在国际极限滑雪巡回赛上参赛,并获得了几家顶级装备公司的赞助。然后,他在那里的第二个冬天,膝盖爆了。

He flew back to Tahoe and moved in with his parents, who had a house share there. On his first night without crutches, he went to a party because his older brother, John, who was also a skier, had told him that the marketing director of the North Face would be there. She was not, but, as he sat alone, rubbing his knee, a woman—Katie—approached him and started razzing him about nursing his injury. They began to flirt. Two years later, they were married. Morrison, in her thrall, put aside his skiing career and his inchoate dreams of Everest, and instead, with his characteristic intensity, tried his hand at home construction.

他飞回太浩,搬去和父母住,他们在那里有一处合住的房子。扔掉拐杖的第一晚,他去参加一个派对,因为他哥哥约翰——也是滑雪者——告诉他北面的市场总监会去。她没去,但当他独自坐着揉膝盖时,一个女人——凯蒂——走过来,开始调侃他护着伤处的样子。他们开始调情。两年后,他们结婚了。莫里森在她的影响下,搁置了滑雪生涯和关于珠峰的朦胧梦想,转而以他一贯的强度尝试房屋建筑。

The first project was putting on a deck, which earned him three thousand dollars. “So now I had a net worth of three thousand and forty bucks,” he said. He knew a local real-estate agent who was marketing a new development, with thirty-five buildable lots. Morrison found a partner who would pay for one of them. Morrison would build the house and get twenty per cent of the equity. The catch was that he didn’t actually know how to build a house. Zellers poured the foundation, and Morrison hired fellow ski bums to do the framing, masonry, and tiling. For a while, he was operating under the contractor’s license of his former mogul-team coach. Across the street, Ernst Hager, a national-ski-team coach and an operations guy at Squaw Valley, was building a house at the behest of the same real-estate agent. Morrison visited the site regularly and studied Hager’s work. “I was learning how to do it the day before I did it,” Morrison said. “Like, ‘Why is there glue in all these joists?’ ‘Well, you put glue in the hangers so they don’t squeak.’ The next morning, I told my crew, ‘We need glue for the joists.’ ‘Glue? Why?’ ‘So the hangers don’t squeak.’ ”

第一个项目是搭一个露台,赚了三千美元。“所以现在我的净资产是三千零四十美元,”他说。他认识一位当地房地产经纪人,正在推销一个新开发项目,有三十五块可建地块。莫里森找了一个愿意出钱买其中一块的合伙人。莫里森来建房子,获得百分之二十的股权。问题是他其实不知道怎么建房子。泽勒斯浇了地基,莫里森雇了其他滑雪流浪汉来做框架、砌砖和贴瓷砖。有一段时间,他用的是他前猫跳队教练的承包商执照。街对面,恩斯特·哈格——国家滑雪队教练兼斯阔谷运营人员——受同一个房地产经纪人之托在建一栋房子。莫里森经常去工地,研究哈格的施工。“我是在做的前一天才学会怎么做的,”莫里森说。“比如,‘为什么这些托梁里有胶?’‘哦,你在挂件里涂胶,这样就不会吱吱响。’第二天早上,我告诉我的工人,‘托梁需要涂胶。’‘胶?为什么?’‘这样挂件就不会吱吱响。’”

Morrison was twenty-four years old. He met his parents for dinner to tell them about his new career. “All they did was try to talk me out of it,” he said. “My father always used to talk about hard work, how nothing comes for free. ‘Money doesn’t grow on trees,’ he said. ‘You’ll see.’ But when I saw this lot, in that development, I thought, This is money growing on trees.”

莫里森当时二十四岁。他和父母约了晚饭,告诉他们自己的新职业。“他们所做的就是试图劝我放弃,”他说。“我父亲总是谈论努力工作,没有什么是白来的。‘钱不会从树上长出来,’他说。‘你等着瞧吧。’但当我看到那个开发项目里的那块地时,我想,这就是从树上长出来的钱。”

Ten years later, Morrison had two kids and a thriving construction business that was building several houses at a time. The family was living in Lahontan, a high-end gated community on a golf course, in Truckee. “I was the youngest member there, by a long shot,” he said. “I’d made a lot of money at this point. And I was leveraging all of it into the houses. Build a house, make it work, sell it, do it again.” The family moved in and out of his builds. “My daughter lived in five houses by the time she was five years old.”

十年后,莫里森有了两个孩子和一个蓬勃发展的建筑生意,同时在建好几栋房子。一家人住在拉洪坦,特拉基一个高尔夫球场旁的高端门禁社区。“我是那里最年轻的会员,差得远呢,”他说。“到那时我已经赚了很多钱。而且我把所有的钱都杠杆化投入到房子里。建一栋,让它运转起来,卖掉,再来一次。”一家人随着他的项目搬进搬出。“我女儿五岁时已经住过五栋房子了。”

One night, when Katie had flown down to Los Angeles, he called her and said, “Honey, this business is cranking, our kids are in a great place, we’re really going to do this.” They had a plan to spend part of the year in Chamonix, enroll the kids in school there. “I had the world by a string,” he told me. “I thought we had it all.” And then, the next day, they were gone.

一天晚上,凯蒂飞到洛杉矶去了,他打电话给她说:“亲爱的,生意蒸蒸日上,孩子们的状态很好,我们真的要成了。”他们有一个计划,每年在霞慕尼住一段时间,让孩子们在那里上学。“我手握整个世界,”他告诉我。“我以为我们什么都有了。”然后,第二天,他们就不在了。

After a second day of climbing, Morrison, in his Chevy pickup, took me on a tour of some of his building projects. He brought me to a newer gated community, called Martis Camp. “It’s Lahontan on steroids,” he said. Two thousand acres, almost seven hundred lots, snug against the Northstar ski area, with views of the Martis Valley and the Sierra Crest. The golf course, glimpsed through the pines, was unexpectedly lush. “I’ve built, like, seventy-five houses in here,” Morrison said.

第二天攀岩结束后,莫里森开着他的雪佛兰皮卡带我去看了他的一些建筑项目。他带我去了一个较新的门禁社区,叫马蒂斯营。“这是拉洪坦的加强版,”他说。两千英亩,近七百块地,紧邻诺斯斯塔滑雪区,可以眺望马蒂斯谷和塞拉山脊。透过松林瞥见的高尔夫球场出乎意料地葱郁。“我在这里面建了大概七十五栋房子,”莫里森说。

During the 2008 financial crisis, most of the construction at Martis Camp came to a virtual halt. But Morrison kept going, despite being leveraged to the hilt. Now, as he navigated the winding blacktop roads, past monstrosities both ultra-modern and outré-Montana, he told the story of his financial survival—the cunning, the bravado, the near-disasters—and it was as harrowing, in its way, as any expedition in the Himalayas. Still, one wouldn’t expect it to become a Chin and Vasarhelyi IMAX spectacular anytime soon.

2008年金融危机期间,马蒂斯营的大部分建设几乎停滞。但莫里森继续干,尽管杠杆已经拉满。现在,当他沿着蜿蜒的柏油路行驶,经过那些超现代和蒙大拿风格夸张的庞然大物时,他讲述了自己财务生存的故事——那些狡黠、虚张声势、险些翻船的瞬间——其惊险程度,以它的方式,不亚于喜马拉雅山脉的任何一次探险。不过,人们不会指望它很快变成金国威和瓦沙瑞莉的IMAX大片。
A person walking down a mountain.
It took three attempts, in the three years after Nelson’s death, to climb and ski the north face of Everest.
在纳尔逊去世后的三年里,他们尝试了三次,才终于攀登并滑雪下撤珠峰北壁。

He pulled up at a house he’d finished in the spring for two Bay Area investors, brothers. It was ten thousand square feet, three years in the making, and, although he wouldn’t tell me how much he got paid for the job, it was obvious to me, after years of hate-reading the Mansions section of the Wall Street Journal, that this house had to be worth tens of millions of dollars. It was what you might call deep Vail-core: heavy stone, big wood, big glass. An immaculate garage had a fleet of bicycles and golf carts and kids’ scooters. We removed our shoes and went from room to room. Muscular floorboards of stained oak, with wooden pegs; massive steel posts and beams clad in a veneer of reclaimed wood; florid paintings of cowboys and bears; excellent whiskeys and patios and books; a stone fireplace the size of a lighthouse. Say what you will about the taste, but the work was very fine. “There are ninety-six pieces of wood in this column,” Morrison said. “Seven hundred or so pieces of wood in this room.” Here and there was custom metalwork fashioned by the burly homeschooled guy from Vermont who earlier that day on the crag I’d seen climb a 5.12d+, and whose shoes I’d borrowed to get a taste of a 5-point-much-less. Side-by-side desks stood in the brothers’ office. One held the business book “Margin of Safety,” and the other held “Brave New World.”

他把车停在一栋他春天刚为两个湾区投资人兄弟建好的房子前。一万平方英尺,历时三年,虽然他不肯告诉我这个项目他拿了多少钱,但在我多年怀着厌恶阅读《华尔街日报》豪宅版之后,很明显这栋房子价值数千万美元。这就是所谓的深度韦尔风格:厚重的石材、大木料、大玻璃。一个一尘不染的车库里停着一排自行车、高尔夫球车和儿童滑板车。我们脱了鞋,一个房间一个房间地看。结实的染色橡木地板,带木钉;巨大的钢柱和钢梁包裹着回收木饰面;花哨的牛仔和熊的油画;上好的威士忌、露台和书籍;一座灯塔大小的石砌壁炉。品味姑且不论,工艺确实精湛。“这根柱子里有九十六块木头,”莫里森说。“这个房间里大约有七百块木头。”这里那里点缀着定制金属制品,出自那个壮实的佛蒙特州在家教育长大的家伙之手——那天早些时候我在岩壁上看他爬了一条5.12d+,还借了他的鞋体验了一下低得多的难度。兄弟俩的办公室里摆着并排的书桌。一张上面放着商业书籍《安全边际》,另一张上面放着《美丽新世界》。

Driving back to his house, we were talking about marriage, or, really, about some of our friends’ marriages. There had been a run of divorces in his mountain set. He recalled visiting Katie’s family in northern Michigan, when he and Katie first started dating, and seeing her parents in the back of a boat, cuddled up under a blanket, giggling. “They were so in love with each other,” he said. “That’s what I want.” He’d had it and lost it twice. “I’m either doing that, or I’m not doing it at all.”

开车回他家的路上,我们聊起了婚姻,或者更准确地说,聊起了一些朋友的婚姻。他的山地圈子里最近离婚不断。他回忆起和凯蒂刚开始约会时去密歇根北部拜访她的家人,看到她的父母在船尾,裹着毯子依偎在一起,咯咯地笑。“他们那么相爱,”他说。“那就是我想要的。”他曾经拥有过,又两次失去。“我要么就那样,要么就干脆不要。”

Recently, Morrison had found himself in another kind of relationship, one that was as nourishing to him as it was baffling. Of all the crazy things that had befallen him since skiing Everest—Prince Harry buying him rounds, Meghan Markle texting him on the crag, dining with John Malkovich—one stood out. Speaking in Los Angeles at a conference organized by Jeffrey Katzenberg, he was invited on a podcast with Oprah Winfrey. She had followed the Everest triumph but had had no idea about the tragedies he’d endured. Morrison was taken by her energy, her presence. “It was just a tremendous amount of similarities in our passion, in our lives, and in how we have manifested our own outcomes through hardship,” he told me. “I was just, like, I love this woman.”

最近,莫里森发现自己处于另一种关系中,这种关系既滋养他,又让他困惑。自从滑雪下珠峰以来,发生在他身上的各种疯狂事情中——哈里王子请他喝酒,梅根·马克尔在岩壁给他发短信,与约翰·马尔科维奇共进晚餐——有一件格外突出。在洛杉矶参加杰弗里·卡森伯格组织的一次会议时,他被邀请上了奥普拉·温弗瑞的播客。她关注了珠峰的壮举,但对他所经历的悲剧一无所知。莫里森被她的能量和存在感所打动。“我们的激情、我们的生活、以及我们如何通过苦难塑造自己的结果,有大量的相似之处,”他告诉我。“我当时就是,我爱这个女人。”

They exchanged numbers and made plans to meet in Telluride, at the première of the Everest film. She had a house there, and he had one, too, which he’d originally built to live in with Nelson and her sons. (He sold it over the summer. Telluride got a little weird for him: Hilaree’s town, without Hilaree. “Every time I went to get groceries, it was, ‘Are you O.K.? Are you really O.K.?’ ” He got a house in Aspen, instead, but still sees and keeps in touch with the boys.) He and Winfrey went for dinner in town. She began planning a party for him and the film. “I’ve never had a party at my house before,” she told him.

他们交换了号码,约定在特柳赖德珠峰电影首映式上见面。她在那里有房子,他也有——那栋房子原本是他为和尼尔森及她的儿子们一起生活而建的。(他夏天把它卖了。特柳赖德对他来说变得有点奇怪:希拉里的城,没有了希拉里。“每次我去买杂货,都是‘你还好吗?你真的还好吗?’”他改在阿斯彭买了房子,但仍和孩子们保持联系。)他和温弗瑞在镇上吃了晚饭。她开始为他和电影筹划一个派对。“我以前从没在我家办过派对,”她告诉他。

Tent, band, flowers: everything just so. “It was essentially a wedding for me,” Morrison said.

帐篷、乐队、鲜花:一切都恰到好处。“对我来说那基本上就是一场婚礼,”莫里森说。

“A part of my soul was stirred by him,” Winfrey told me. “It makes me tear up to think about him. He’s one of the most extraordinary people on the planet. Here’s a guy who can have joy and grief existing in the same heart.” For the party, she had him write something that she could print on a four-by-six-inch card and leave at each place setting; she also read it aloud to the guests.

“他触动了我灵魂的一部分,”温弗瑞告诉我。“想到他我就想流泪。他是这个星球上最非凡的人之一。这是一个能让喜悦和悲伤共存于同一颗心中的人。”为了派对,她让他写了一段话,印在四乘六英寸的卡片上,放在每个餐位前;她还当众朗读给客人听。

When Morrison told me about all this, we were sitting at his kitchen table, still in our clothes from the crag. Night had fallen on the lake. The conversation would go on deeper into the night—“I’m an endurance athlete,” he’d say—but at this moment he stood and fetched a tawny box, made of paper from Nepal, tied up in twine, and began gingerly unwrapping it. Inside was one of the cards, which bore twenty-two lines, center-formatted on fine grainy stock, his signature at the bottom.

莫里森告诉我这些时,我们坐在他厨房的桌旁,还穿着从岩壁回来的衣服。夜幕已降临湖面。谈话会持续到深夜——“我是耐力运动员,”他会说——但此刻他站起来,取来一个黄褐色的盒子,尼泊尔纸做的,用麻绳系着,开始小心翼翼地打开。里面是其中一张卡片,上面有二十二行字,居中排版在细腻的纹理纸上,底部有他的签名。

I read it to myself, as one does, in my inner Oprah voice: “The mountains have given me so much. They’ve also taken a great deal from me. I don’t climb or ski for the risk. I do it for the presence it demands.” Then I handed it back, and he put it aside to wrap it up again. “I was going to give this to my mom,” he said.

我默读了一遍,就像人们会做的那样,用我内心的奥普拉声音:“群山给了我太多。它们也从我这里夺走了很多。我攀登或滑雪不是为了风险。我是为了它要求的那种临在。”然后我把卡片递回去,他放在一旁准备重新包好。“我本来想把这个给我妈的,”他说。

It was tempting to think of this as another node in the grief-industrial complex, the gyre of thrills and kills, sentiment and content, but the force of Morrison’s belief, his tenacity and quietude, and the way it seemed to reflect what little I knew about those characteristics in Winfrey, made me feel suddenly and resolutely happy for him. This was when he began to tell me about encountering the spirits of his children on the North Ridge. ♦

人们很容易把这看作悲伤工业复合体的又一个节点——刺激与杀戮、感伤与内容的漩涡——但莫里森信念的力量、他的坚韧与沉静,以及它似乎映照出我所知的温弗瑞身上那些特质的方式,让我突然而坚定地为他感到高兴。就在这时,他开始告诉我他在北脊上遇到孩子们灵魂的事。♦

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