Shouts & Murmurs

I’m Starting to Suspect That the F.D.A. Is Just Trying to Get Me to Cook

我开始怀疑,美国食品药品监督管理局就是想逼我下厨。
October 6, 2026
A stressed man looks at chopped vegetables in a kitchen.
Photograph from Getty

At first, I took the alerts seriously. When the Food and Drug Administration announced that a multistate cyclospora outbreak was linked to a certain batch of iceberg lettuce from Mexico, I dutifully tossed my wedge salad. Then the recalls grew more sweeping, eventually implicating more items in my kitchen—a popular brand of potato chips, some diced chunks of cantaloupe, and a jar of pistachio-nut butter that a male Instacart shopper had confidently substituted for a single bag of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. My compliance began to curdle into exasperation. Still, I’m a civic-minded person, and I have no desire for my gastrointestinal tract to be transformed into the River Styx. All I could do was sigh, throw out the compromised goods, and accept that dinner would be a handful of shredded cheese, eaten directly from the bag over the kitchen sink.

起初,我对这些警报还挺当回事。当美国食品药品监督管理局宣布,多州爆发的环孢子虫疫情与一批来自墨西哥的卷心莴苣有关时,我老老实实地扔掉了我的楔形沙拉。后来召回范围越来越大,最终波及我厨房里的更多东西——一个畅销品牌的薯片、几块切好的哈密瓜,还有一罐开心果坚果酱,那是一位男性 Instacart 采购员自作主张,用来替换一袋“火热奇多”的。我的配合开始变质为恼火。不过,我是个有公德心的人,也不想让自己的胃肠道变成冥河。我能做的只有叹口气,扔掉问题食品,然后接受晚餐就是一把碎奶酪,站在厨房水槽边直接从袋子里抓着吃。

Lately, though, the push notifications alerting me to the recall du jour have taken on an unremitting, nagging tone. On the surface, this all looks like standard public-health advocacy. We’re now familiar with the boilerplate safety guidelines included in recall articles. But, all of a sudden, the math started to add up. I realized that I was getting reminders to properly heat raw meat with a frequency that rivalled that of Skyrizi commercials. Now I receive urgent, unsolicited dispatches about internal poultry temperatures apropos of absolutely nothing. For instance, the F.D.A. recommends bringing whole poultry, poultry breasts, and ground poultry to a safe minimum internal temperature of a hundred and sixty-five degrees Fahrenheit. You know who else recommends bringing whole poultry, poultry breasts, and ground poultry to a safe minimum internal temperature of a hundred and sixty-five degrees Fahrenheit? My mother.

但最近,提醒我“今日召回”的推送通知变得没完没了,语气也越来越烦人。表面上看,这都像是标准的公共卫生宣传。我们现在对召回文章里那些套话式的安全指南已经很熟悉了。可是,突然之间,数字对上了。我意识到,我收到“正确加热生肉”提醒的频率,已经快赶上 Skyrizi 广告了。现在我动不动就收到关于禽肉内部温度的紧急推送,而且毫无来由。比如,美国食品药品监督管理局建议将整只禽肉、鸡胸肉和禽肉糜加热到安全的最低内部温度一百六十五华氏度。你知道还有谁建议将整只禽肉、鸡胸肉和禽肉糜加热到安全的最低内部温度一百六十五华氏度吗?我妈。

The messaging has gotten harder to ignore. Two days ago, I received an emergency alert regarding “all ready-to-eat, shelf-stable, ambient-temperature convenience-store items nationwide.” Surely this must be an error, I thought—a matter of haphazard syntax! I tapped the notification, expecting the usual recall details, and discovered the reason for the alert: Potential risk of not engaging in mise en place. Under “Recommended Consumer Actions,” the agency didn’t instruct me to return the offending items for a refund. Instead, they provided a hyperlinked YouTube tutorial on how to properly deglaze a pan.

这些信息越来越难以忽视。两天前,我收到一条紧急警报,涉及“全国所有即食、耐储存、常温便利店食品”。我心想,这肯定是搞错了——不过是语法乱套罢了!我点开通知,以为会看到惯常的召回细节,结果发现警报的原因是:可能存在未进行“备料准备”的风险。在“建议消费者采取的行动”一栏,该机构并没有指示我把问题商品退回退款,而是提供了一个超链接的 YouTube 教程,教我怎么正确地给锅去渣。

At this point, any pretense of subtext has been abandoned. Yesterday, a voluntary recall was issued for every major brand of frozen chicken nuggets because “they might contain small pieces of metal, or, worse, the crushing realization that you are a thirty-five-year-old adult who still eats like a kindergartner at a birthday party.” This morning, the agency urged me to immediately discard my store-bought rotisserie chicken and instead braise a lamb shank in a classic mirepoix.

到了这一步,任何潜台词的伪装都被抛弃了。昨天,所有主流品牌的冷冻鸡块都被发布了自愿召回,原因是“它们可能含有小块金属,或者更糟——那种令人崩溃的醒悟:你是个三十五岁的成年人,却还像生日派对上的幼儿园小朋友一样吃东西。”今天早上,该机构又敦促我立即扔掉从店里买的烤鸡,改用法式经典蔬菜丁炖一只羊小腿。

This just in: the very concept of a deli counter is now under active federal investigation.

最新消息:熟食柜台这个概念本身,目前正受到联邦层面的主动调查。

I tried to outsmart them. I stopped buying pre-cut fruit. I successfully ignored the siren song of the deli display that was luring me toward one of those pre-assembled charcuterie adult Lunchables. Thinking that maybe a team of professional chefs could help me evade agency scrutiny, I pivoted entirely to the hot-food bar at the gourmet market down the street. I believed that I’d finally beaten them, until I received a high-priority alert stating that any prepared mac and cheese consumed out of a cardboard container while watching “The Traitors” poses an immediate danger of “emotional rigor mortis.” So I drove three counties over to a tiny creamery and bought some artisanal, small-batch provisions, praying that a fancy goat cheese bisected by a line of vegetable ash wouldn’t trigger a warning. No sooner had I started my car than I was informed that every wedge had been recalled for “exhibiting unauthorized rustic charm.” They don’t want me to be safe; they want me to buy a Dutch oven.

我试着智取他们。我不再买预切水果。我成功无视了熟食展示柜的塞壬之歌,它曾引诱我去买那种预先组装好的成人版 Lunchables 熟食拼盘。我想着,也许一队专业厨师能帮我躲过机构的审查,于是彻底转向了街对面美食市场的热食吧。我以为我终于赢了他们,直到我收到一条高优先级警报,称任何一边看《叛徒》一边从纸盒里吃预制芝士通心粉的行为,都会带来“情感尸僵”的即时危险。于是我开了三个县的路,去了一家小奶油厂,买了一些手工小批量食品,祈祷一块中间横贯着植物炭灰线的高级山羊奶酪不会触发警告。我刚发动车,就被告知每一块奶酪都已被召回,原因是“展现出未经授权的乡村魅力”。他们不是想让我安全,他们是想让我买一口荷兰炖锅。

It's getting exhausting. I can’t even open a bag of tortilla chips anymore without being cautioned that my sodium levels are a “cry for help,” followed by the suggestion that I consider roasting my own chickpeas with a light dusting of organic cumin instead. So you know what? You win, Commissioner! I’ll get a cast-iron skillet. I’ll commit to using “roux” as a verb. I’ll finally figure out how to turn on my oven. I just have one non-negotiable, and it’s a deal-breaker: I refuse to eat the food I cook.

真是越来越累。我现在连打开一袋玉米片都不行,系统会警告我,我的钠含量是“一种求救信号”,接着建议我考虑自己烤鹰嘴豆,再轻轻撒上一层有机孜然。所以你知道吗?你赢了,局长!我会买一口铸铁煎锅。我会把“roux”当动词用。我终于会弄明白怎么打开我的烤箱。我只有一个不可谈判的条件,而且这是底线:我拒绝吃我自己做的饭。

Actually, never mind. There’s already an alert regarding my meatloaf. ♦

算了,当我没说。已经有关于我的肉糕的警报了。♦

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