The Sporting Scene

The Soccer Club Fighting Against the Premium Experience

一家抵制“高端体验”的足球俱乐部
As the global game gets entwined with global capital, some fans are finding relief in the ninth tier of English football.
当全球化的足球运动与全球资本深度纠缠,一些球迷在英格兰第九级别联赛中找到了解脱。
October 6, 2026
People of various backgrounds holding a team banner an E.U. flag and a transpride flag spectate in the stands during a...
Illustration by Ian Foster-Dimino

Last January, I met a man named Vinny McDonald at a pub in Chorlton-cum-Hardy, in the southern suburbs of Manchester, England. We sat outside over pints of Boddington’s. “The cream of Manchester,” Vinny called it, with a toothy grin.

去年一月,我在英格兰曼彻斯特南郊的乔尔顿-哈迪(Chorlton-cum-Hardy)一家酒吧里见到了一位名叫文尼·麦克唐纳(Vinny McDonald)的男子。我们坐在户外,喝着博丁顿啤酒。“曼彻斯特的奶油,”文尼露齿一笑,这样称呼它。

Vinny, who is forty-nine years old, comes from a large, working-class Irish family. His mother supported seven children as a housecleaner and took him to church. Vinny found the communal prayer tedious. It’s difficult to scrounge up meaningful penitence when you’re seven.

文尼今年四十九岁,来自一个庞大的爱尔兰工人阶级家庭。他的母亲靠做清洁工抚养七个孩子,还带他去教堂。文尼觉得集体祷告乏味透顶。一个七岁的孩子,很难搜肠刮肚找出什么像样的忏悔。

When he was eight, one of his brothers took him to his first Manchester United game, at Old Trafford, the team’s vast fortress, nicknamed the Theatre of Dreams. Football in the eighties wasn’t broadcast on television every week. “It was just, ‘Go to the game, go to the game, go to the game,’ ” Vinny recalled. He would emerge into open-air stands, called terraces, with an infantry of fans, decked out, like all good soldiers, in uniform—Adidas, Fred Perry, Lacoste, Fila—to the warring smells of tobacco, beer, and beef pies.

八岁那年,一个哥哥带他去看了人生第一场曼联比赛,地点在老特拉福德——球队那座巨大的堡垒,绰号“梦剧场”。八十年代的足球并非每周都在电视上转播。“就是‘去看球、去看球、去看球’,”文尼回忆道。他会和一大群球迷一起涌进露天看台——那时叫阶梯看台——像所有好士兵一样全副武装,穿着阿迪达斯、弗雷德·佩里、拉科斯特、斐乐,迎向烟草、啤酒和牛肉派混杂的硝烟气息。

Vinny’s brother kept telling him, “Wait till you hear the noise when they score.” The match finished without a goal. But, in the stadium’s west-side stands, the infamous Stretford End—described by the Observer as “a kind of academy of violence,” not dissimilar to a “cage, formidable and expensive, that is put up by a zoo to contain the animals it needs but slightly fears”—Vinny was left transfixed by the crowd. “It was all swaying,” he remembered.

文尼的哥哥不停地对他说:“等他们进球的时候,你听听那声音。”那场比赛最终一球未进。但在球场西侧的看台——臭名昭著的斯特雷特福德看台,《观察家报》曾将其描述为“一种暴力学院”,不亚于“动物园为关住它需要却又略感畏惧的动物而搭建的笼子,令人生畏且造价高昂”——文尼被人群彻底迷住了。“全都在摇晃,”他回忆道。

Football became a measurement of time. Vinny remembers throwing up on the steps of Old Trafford before a match against Dundee, in 1984. He remembers selling unlicensed merchandise, in 1997, before United played Borussia Dortmund, in Germany. The German police would have preferred that he didn’t; they tangled.

足球成了丈量时间的标尺。文尼记得1984年曼联对阵邓迪联之前,他在老特拉福德的台阶上呕吐。他记得1997年在德国,曼联对阵多特蒙德之前,他在卖未经授权的周边商品。德国警察可不希望他这么做;双方发生了冲突。

Ninety-seven people died as a result of a mass crush, in 1989, on the terraces at Hillsborough Stadium, in the city of Sheffield. In the aftermath, the terraces of English football grounds were torn down and replaced with seats. At Old Trafford, the Stretford End became the seated, more expensive West Stand. United won its first league title in nearly three decades, in 1993, and then kept winning. Television money and commercial ambition turned the club into a premium global-entertainment product.

1989年,谢菲尔德市希尔斯堡球场的阶梯看台上发生大规模踩踏,九十七人因此丧生。此后,英格兰各足球场的阶梯看台被拆除,换成了座位。在老特拉福德,斯特雷特福德看台变成了有座位的、票价更高的西看台。1993年,曼联赢得了近三十年来的第一个联赛冠军,此后便一路高歌。电视转播收入和商业野心把这家俱乐部变成了一款高端全球娱乐产品。

A leveraged take-over, in 2005, by an American family, the Glazers, raised prices and loaded the club with debt. When Ineos, a multinational conglomerate, took over operations, in 2024, prices rose again. Discounts for children, seniors, and other groups were reduced. Longtime season-ticket holders were relocated to make room for hospitality-ticket holders, who lounged in padded seats and were served treacle-cured duck breast with plum compote.

2005年,美国家族格雷泽家族通过杠杆收购入主曼联,推高了票价,也让俱乐部背上了沉重债务。2024年,跨国企业集团英力士接手运营后,票价再次上涨。儿童、老年人等群体的折扣被削减。长期季票持有者被重新安排座位,为款待票持有者腾出空间——后者坐在软垫座椅上,享用着糖浆腌鸭胸配李子酱。

Vinny, a shutter installer, tried to overlook the price hikes. “There’s still that great community thing,” he said, “your group of friends who go there.” But his friends started to disappear. Not only was attending matches expensive—it was increasingly unpleasant. Barriers separated crowds into escort routes before and after games; supporters could be held in the stadium long after the final whistle, so that rival groups did not clash outside. “You get treated like a criminal before you’ve done anything. You wouldn’t take it in any other walk of life, would you?” Vinny said.

文尼是一名卷帘门安装工,他试图不去计较涨价。“那种社区感还在,”他说,“你那一帮一起去看球的朋友。”但他的朋友们开始一个个消失。看球不仅贵了——体验也越来越令人不快。赛前赛后,隔离栏把人群分成不同的疏散路线;终场哨响后,球迷可能被扣在球场里很久,以防敌对球迷群体在外面发生冲突。“你什么都没干,就被当成罪犯对待。换作生活中任何其他场合,你都不会忍,对吧?”文尼说。

And, really, there’s nastiness and there’s nastiness. Vinny still relished the thought of sitting, just the right amount of scared, in a rival stadium, like Liverpool’s Anfield—“Love the thought of going to Anfield, knowing I could get me head kicked in,” he said. But, as Gianni Infantino, the president of FIFA, announced recently, “Football belongs to everyone,” and in some ways this is true. Across any fan base, there is an insistence that loyalty to the badge trumps all differences—a beautiful sentiment, until people open their mouths. At Old Trafford, Vinny usually sat in front of a man who launched into the same racist chant every two weeks. “No one was, like, ‘Dickhead,’ ” Vinny said. Eventually, one of Vinny’s friends punched the man. At halftime, the fan came over. “He was, like, ‘We’re all United fans, aren’t we?’ No, you’re just a dick,” Vinny said. “It’s not 1970 anymore. It’s not 1980, even.”

而且,恶意也分很多种。文尼仍然享受坐在对手球场里那种恰到好处的恐惧感,比如利物浦的安菲尔德——“就喜欢去安菲尔德的那种感觉,知道自己可能脑袋开花,”他说。但正如国际足联主席詹尼·因凡蒂诺最近宣布的那样,“足球属于每一个人”,从某些方面来说确实如此。在任何球迷群体中,都有一种坚持:对队徽的忠诚超越一切分歧——这是一种美好的情感,直到人们开口说话。在老特拉福德,文尼通常坐在一个每两周就要喊一次同样种族主义口号的人前面。“没人说‘你个傻逼’,”文尼说。最终,文尼的一个朋友揍了那个人。中场休息时,那个球迷走了过来。“他说,‘我们不都是曼联球迷吗?’不,你就是个傻逼,”文尼说。“已经不是1970年了。甚至都不是1980年了。”

Vinny stopped religiously going to Manchester United games twelve years ago. “They don’t want me in there,” he said. “Fight for what you believe in or walk away. And I pretty much walked away from United.”

十二年前,文尼不再雷打不动地去看曼联比赛了。“他们不想让我待在那儿,”他说。“要么为你相信的东西而战,要么走人。我基本上是从曼联走人了。”

A year passed. On Sundays, Vinny would go to the Turn Moss public playing fields, just south of Manchester, where he would watch amateur leagues play. The River Mersey runs by the bottom of the playing fields. One day, Vinny walked along the river with his two-year-old son into Chorlton-cum-Hardy, and then along a tributary, the Chorlton Brook. Between the brook and the river, he arrived at a football pitch.

一年过去了。每逢周日,文尼会去曼彻斯特南边的特恩莫斯公共球场,看业余联赛的比赛。默西河流经球场底部。有一天,文尼带着两岁的儿子沿着河边走进乔尔顿-哈迪,又沿着一条支流——乔尔顿溪——往前走。在溪流与河流之间,他来到了一块足球场。

The ground belonged to a club called West Didsbury and Chorlton A.F.C. Its supporters call it West. The club played in the North West Counties Football League, in the ninth tier of English football. Any football that is played below the top four divisions of English football is considered non-league, and West fit the category handsomely. Not even a hundred people were at the first match that Vinny attended. His toddler crawled along the touchline. “You just sat there,” Vinny said. “You just feel comfortable. And you think, I like this.”

这块场地属于一家叫西迪兹伯里和乔尔顿足球俱乐部(West Didsbury and Chorlton A.F.C.)的球队。球迷们简称它“西队”。这家俱乐部参加西北诸郡足球联赛,属于英格兰足球第九级别。英格兰前四级联赛以下的任何足球都被视为“非联赛”,而西队完全符合这个类别。文尼看的第一场比赛,到场人数还不到一百。他的幼子沿着边线爬来爬去。“你就坐在那儿,”文尼说。“你就觉得舒服。然后你想,我喜欢这个。”

West, founded in 1908, spent much of its first century yo-yoing up and down the standings of amateur leagues on anonymous fields around south Manchester. When the team settled at Brookburn Road, in Chorlton, in 1996, it was one of thousands of non-league clubs playing for almost nobody. Obscenities, the referee’s whistle, and the thud of boots into balls—and sometimes shins—easily carry across these desolate fields.

西队成立于1908年,在第一个百年的大部分时间里,它在曼彻斯特南部各处无名球场的业余联赛积分榜上起起落落。1996年球队落户乔尔顿的布鲁克本路时,它只是数千支几乎无人观看的非联赛球队之一。骂声、裁判的哨声、球靴踢球的闷响——有时是踢到小腿的闷响——在这些荒凉的球场上轻易地传开。

In 2011, West installed floodlights, for late games. Around the same time, a small group of regulars began gathering in the stands. Admission was five pounds and the beer was decent, so friends brought friends. Some of them were put off by élite football’s deliberate lack of culture—staunch apoliticism is easy to sell to Sky Sports—and others had been priced out. They organized events, offered free tickets, drinks, and, as a selling point, choir recitals. Then the pandemic hit, and an outdoor pint became one of the last vestiges of social life. West’s attendance bloomed.

2011年,西队安装了泛光灯,用于晚间比赛。大约同一时期,一小群常客开始在看台上聚集。门票五英镑,啤酒也不错,于是朋友们带来了更多的朋友。其中一些人是对精英足球刻意营造的“无文化”氛围感到反感——坚定的政治中立态度很容易卖给天空体育——另一些人则是被票价挡在了门外。他们组织活动,发放免费门票、饮料,还把合唱表演当作卖点。然后疫情来了,在户外喝一杯啤酒成了所剩无几的社交方式之一。西队的上座率随之暴涨。

A fan named Steph Parker said that Brookburn Road was “the biggest beer garden in Chorlton.” The matches were entertaining, in a weird, raw kind of way—slapstick football. During one game, on a dark winter afternoon, a Border terrier ran onto the pitch. Five players and the referee tried to catch it, Steph recalled, while its owner sobbed on the sidelines. The dog was not caught. The game was abandoned.

一位名叫斯蒂芙·帕克(Steph Parker)的球迷说,布鲁克本路是“乔尔顿最大的啤酒花园”。比赛很有趣,以一种古怪而粗粝的方式——像闹剧足球。有一场比赛,在一个阴暗的冬日下午,一只边境梗跑进了球场。斯蒂芙回忆说,五名球员和裁判都试图抓住它,而它的主人在场边哭得泣不成声。狗没抓到。比赛被取消了。

For John Williams, a sociologist at Leicester University, non-league football has become “a refuge in England for people who are rejecting what’s happening at the top level—who want an intimate connection with the club and disagree with the politics of the Premier League.” Matthew Durrant, a Leeds supporter before he discovered West, was also disenchanted by the direction of the country as a whole. News headlines loudly declared crisis after crisis—in the N.H.S., in the Labour Party, in a Calais refugee camp. The Brexit referendum, in 2016, became a mainstay in public discourse. Supermarket beef included traces of horsemeat.

在莱斯特大学社会学家约翰·威廉姆斯(John Williams)看来,非联赛足球已经成为“英格兰那些拒绝顶层足球现状的人的避难所——他们想要与俱乐部建立亲密的联系,也不认同英超的政治”。马修·杜兰特(Matthew Durrant)在发现西队之前是利兹联的球迷,他对整个国家的走向同样感到幻灭。新闻头条大声宣告着一个又一个危机——国民医疗服务体系、工党、加来的难民营。2016年的脱欧公投成了公共话语中的常驻话题。超市牛肉里检出了马肉成分。

A team with no fan base, Matt told me, was a chance to “build the club we wanted to support.” West’s politics were never consolidated with a manifesto. “If you could bring a flag, what flag would you bring? That was it,” Steph said. After Britain voted to leave the European Union, Matt found himself on Alibaba, tinkering with E.U. symbols. “Before you know it, you’re getting a run of twenty flags made at your own expense,” Matt said. When he brought one of the homemade flags to an away game, an assistant manager asked what it was. The fans made stickers, which started to cover the walls at Brookburn Road: “Football Without Trans Is Nothing”; “No One Is Illegal”; “Boycott Israeli Apartheid.” These signals seemed to draw more families, more women, and more nonbinary people—people who might not otherwise have gone to a ninth-division football ground in south Manchester.

马特告诉我,一支没有球迷基础的球队,是一个“打造我们想要支持的俱乐部”的机会。西队的政治立场从未以宣言的形式固定下来。“如果你能带一面旗,你会带什么旗?就是这样,”斯蒂芙说。英国公投脱欧之后,马特发现自己泡在阿里巴巴上,捣鼓欧盟标志。“不知不觉间,你就自掏腰包订做了二十面旗子,”马特说。当他带着一面自制旗帜去客场比赛时,一位助理教练问那是什么。球迷们制作了贴纸,开始贴满布鲁克本路的墙壁:“没有跨性别者的足球什么都不是”;“没有人是非法的”;“抵制以色列种族隔离”。这些信号似乎吸引了更多家庭、更多女性和更多非二元性别者——那些本来可能不会去曼彻斯特南部一个第九级别联赛球场的人。

Steph understood the precarious nature of belonging at the football. She grew up in Glasgow, which is mostly divided between Protestant supporters of Rangers and Catholic supporters of Celtic. Her father was Protestant and her mother was Catholic. Games between the two Scottish giants, known as Old Firm derbies, regularly ended in violence. “We’re up to our knees in Fenian blood,” Rangers fans have been known to trill, along with a resounding “Fuck the Pope.” “Old Firm games meant you weren’t going to be in for a good time,” Steph recalled. “There’d be drama on the streets, drama inside your house.” Her dad and brother would sing Rangers songs around the kitchen at home, and Steph remembered thinking, Mum’s right there.

斯蒂芙深知在足球中“归属感”的脆弱本质。她在格拉斯哥长大,那里大体上分为新教徒支持的流浪者队和天主教徒支持的凯尔特人队两大阵营。她的父亲是新教徒,母亲是天主教徒。这两支苏格兰豪门之间的比赛被称为“老字号德比”,经常以暴力收场。“我们浸在芬尼亚人的血里没到膝盖,”流浪者球迷以哼唱这样的歌词而闻名,外加一声响亮的“去他妈教皇”。“老字号比赛意味着你别想有好日子过,”斯蒂芙回忆道。“街上会闹事,家里也会闹。”她的父亲和哥哥会在家里的厨房里唱流浪者的歌,斯蒂芙记得自己当时想,妈妈就在那儿呢。

Support for a local club is not, in itself, reactionary, but Williams, the sociologist, noted an overlap between supporters and cultural-preservation movements across post-industrial Britain. It is “(mainly) men who react with a ‘profound sense of loss’ through their ritualistic and highly symbolic constructions of nostalgic discourses and images,” he wrote, in one study. The workingmen’s clubs have closed, and trade-union branches have declined. The pub is expensive. In many of these towns, the local football club is what’s left—it serves as “the strong invocation of place and identity in the face of wider social change,” Williams wrote. This reaction is often tinged with right-wing politics—in the past year, there has been an increase in anti-immigrant, homophobic, Islamophobic, and antisemitic chants. At West, the fans veered to the left.

支持本地俱乐部本身并不必然是反动的,但社会学家威廉姆斯注意到,在后工业时代的英国,球迷群体与文化保护运动之间存在重叠。他在一项研究中写道,“(主要是)男性通过仪式化的、高度象征性的怀旧话语和意象建构,以一种‘深切的失落感’做出反应”。工人俱乐部关门了,工会分支衰落了。酒吧太贵。在许多这样的城镇里,当地的足球俱乐部是仅存的东西——它充当着“面对更广泛社会变迁时对地方与身份的强烈召唤”,威廉姆斯写道。这种反应往往带有右翼政治色彩——过去一年里,反移民、恐同、仇视伊斯兰和反犹的口号有所增加。而在西队,球迷们偏向了左翼。

One of West’s ardent supporters, Con Lunn, grew up in an old mining town outside of Sheffield as a Sheffield United fan. His match days at the team’s ground, Bramall Lane, follow a familiar pattern: pre-match pint, standard songs, ninety minutes of anger, and then a slow snake back to the train.

西队的狂热支持者之一康·伦恩(Con Lunn)在谢菲尔德郊外一个老矿镇长大,是谢菲尔德联队的球迷。他在球队主场布拉莫巷的比赛日遵循着熟悉的模式:赛前一杯啤酒,唱几首标准歌曲,九十分钟的愤怒,然后像一条缓慢的蛇一样挪回火车站。

In 2014, Con moved to Manchester. He worked night shifts in security at a drugstore in the city center. He stopped sleeping. He lived in a basement flat that completely flooded one evening. On Friday nights, he clocked in; on Saturday mornings, he clocked out and took the train to Bramall Lane. By the middle of 2019, he was waiting for a sunny day to take his life.

2014年,康搬到了曼彻斯特。他在市中心一家药妆店做夜班保安。他不再睡觉。他住在一间半地下室公寓里,有一天晚上被彻底淹了。周五晚上打卡上班;周六早上打卡下班,坐火车去布拉莫巷。到2019年年中,他在等一个晴天结束自己的生命。

“It’s Manchester,” he told me, and snorted. “There aren’t many of those.”

“这里是曼彻斯特,”他对我说,然后哼了一声。“晴天可不多。”

A roommate brought Con to West. When I first met him, during a dreary loss to Stockport in frigid winds, he was more preoccupied with a KitKat Chunky White chocolate than with the result. “I’m not going to start getting wound up because the center-back had the shits the night before and isn’t performing particularly well,” he said. “We’re playing someone on Wednesday—I’ll be there.”

一个室友把康带到了西队。我第一次见到他时,是在寒风刺骨中观看一场对斯托克波特的沉闷失利,他对一块奇巧白巧克力棒的关注远超过比赛结果。“我不会因为中后卫前一天晚上拉肚子、表现不佳就开始上火,”他说。“周三还有比赛——我会去的。”

“I need to feel like I belong somewhere,” he said.

“我需要感觉自己属于某个地方,”他说。

West isn’t alone in providing this refuge. Just north of Manchester, the former mill town of Bury was hit hard by deindustrialization, then faced additional struggles under the austerity movement of the twenty-tens. Bury was left with an open-air market, famous for its black-pudding stalls, and a football team, Bury F.C. The team was part of the English Football League for a hundred and twenty-five years. In 2019, amid financial trouble, management was given a deadline to sell by the E.F.L. Four hundred supporters gathered at the stadium, Gigg Lane, with brooms, mops, and bin bags, to get the ground ready for their first game of the season. The deadline passed; Bury never played the game, and the team was expelled from the league. Supporters stood outside Gigg Lane as the floodlights were switched off. Bury’s mayor called the closure the final nail in the town’s coffin.

提供这种避风港的并非只有西队。在曼彻斯特以北,曾经的纺织业小镇伯里在去工业化中遭受重创,又在2010年代的紧缩运动中雪上加霜。伯里只剩下一个以黑布丁摊位闻名的露天市场,和一支足球队——伯里足球俱乐部。这支球队在英格兰足球联赛中征战了一百二十五年。2019年,由于财务困境,英格兰足球联赛给管理层设定了出售球队的最后期限。四百名支持者带着扫帚、拖把和垃圾袋聚集在吉格巷球场,为球队新赛季的第一场比赛做准备。期限过了;伯里没能踢成那场比赛,球队被逐出联赛。泛光灯熄灭时,支持者们站在吉格巷球场外。伯里市长称这次关闭是钉在镇上棺材上的最后一颗钉子。

During the next few years, a group of fans formed a supporter-owned club called Bury A.F.C. Another group acquired the old club’s assets, including its name and, eventually, Gigg Lane. In 2023, the two groups voted to merge, allowing the fan-owned club to play, once again, as Bury F.C. at Gigg Lane. (That year, Bury’s market partly shut down.)

此后几年里,一群球迷组建了一家由球迷拥有的俱乐部,名为伯里A.F.C.。另一个团体收购了老俱乐部的资产,包括其名称,最终还包括吉格巷球场。2023年,两个团体投票合并,让这家球迷拥有的俱乐部得以再次以伯里F.C.的名义在吉格巷比赛。(那一年,伯里的市场部分关闭了。)

In September, 2023, West played Bury at Gigg Lane. It did not go well. A West supporter was slapped in the head while putting up a progressive sticker outside the stadium. A Bury fan mocked a West fan with a “limp wrist” hand gesture. Someone else was called a “Paki.” When the two teams met again, a handful of Bury supporters mocked fans using the disabled facilities.

2023年9月,西队在吉格巷客场对阵伯里。情况并不顺利。一名西队支持者在球场外张贴进步主义贴纸时被人打了头。一名伯里球迷用手做出“软手腕”的姿势嘲弄一名西队球迷。还有人被骂作“巴基佬”。两队再次交手时,几名伯里支持者嘲弄了使用残疾人设施的球迷。

Similar dynamics have emerged at other away grounds. Vinny judges a place by how many St. George’s Cross flags he sees on the lampposts. The red-on-white flag of England has become something of a symbol for right-wing, anti-immigration politics. The people who get angry at West’s stickers are the same ones scaling the lampposts to plant the flags, Vinny told me. They don’t even go all the way to the top, he lamented—“halfway down the lamppost.”

类似的动态在其他客场球场也出现了。文尼判断一个地方的标准是路灯柱上有多少面圣乔治十字旗。这面红底白字的英格兰国旗在某种程度上已成为右翼、反移民政治的象征。文尼告诉我,那些对西队的贴纸感到愤怒的人,正是爬上灯柱挂旗子的人。他感叹道,他们甚至都不爬到顶——“就挂在灯柱半截。”

I first went to a West game on an improbably bright January afternoon. Brookburn Road is off a narrow dirt path in the woods. The pitch often floods after heavy rain; winter fixtures are often cancelled. If games are held, and if people manage to find the ground, they are greeted at the entrance by blue Portaloos.

我第一次去看西队的比赛,是在一个晴朗得不太真实的一月下午。布鲁克本路在树林中一条狭窄的土路旁。大雨过后球场经常被淹;冬季赛程经常被取消。如果比赛照常举行,如果人们能找到球场,入口处迎接他们的是蓝色的移动厕所。

A low wooden fence goes around the pitch itself, with a top rail just wide enough to support a can of Foster’s. I walked down the long side, then past a red brick clubhouse behind one of the goals, where I waved to Dave Cooper, a former player who became the club secretary, treasurer, and a member of the finance subcommittee; now, on match days, he turns on the heating and hot water, checks the generator fuel, and restocks the toilets. Next to the clubhouse, people were queuing at a purpose-built hut for tea, beer, and Bovril—“Beefy Drink.” I walked up the other long side of the field, until I arrived at the Shed End, behind the other goal.

一道低矮的木栅栏环绕着球场,顶部横栏刚好够放一罐福斯特啤酒。我沿着长边走过去,经过球门后面的一座红砖会所,向戴夫·库珀(Dave Cooper)挥手致意——他以前是球员,后来成了俱乐部秘书、财务主管和财务小组委员会成员;现在,比赛日他负责打开暖气和热水、检查发电机燃油、补充厕所用品。会所旁边,人们在一个专门搭建的小屋前排队买茶、啤酒和保卫尔牛肉汁——“牛肉饮品”。我沿着球场的另一条长边走上去,直到抵达另一侧球门后面的“棚看台”。

The Shed End is cobbled together from sheets of cheap corrugated metal and cheap plastic, with a few steps for tiered standing. I stood in the top-right corner of the structure. On the lumpy pitch, players were warming up, the home team wearing black and white.

棚看台是用廉价波纹金属板和廉价塑料板拼凑起来的,有几级台阶供人站立观赛。我站在看台右上角。在坑洼不平的球场上,球员们正在热身,主队穿着黑白条纹球衣。

West was playing Nelson F.C., another ninth-division team, in the F.A. Vase, a cup competition that about six hundred teams participate in. Attendance below the upper tiers of English football has doubled in the past ten years. “It’s amazing,” the football writer and author of “The Ball is Round: A Global History of Soccer,” David Goldblatt told me. “Not much else is growing in Britain.” Still, most teams at this level draw an average of some two hundred people. At Brookburn Road, there were about eleven hundred attendees.

西队正在足总瓶(F.A. Vase)中对阵纳尔逊F.C.——另一支第九级别球队。足总瓶是一项约有六百支球队参加的杯赛。过去十年里,英格兰顶级联赛以下级别的上座率翻了一番。“这很了不起,”足球作家、《球是圆的:足球全球史》作者大卫·戈德布拉特(David Goldblatt)告诉我。“英国没多少别的东西在增长。”尽管如此,这个级别的大多数球队场均观众也只有两百人左右。而在布鲁克本路,到场人数约有一千一百人。

The Shed was covered in stickers. “It’s the weekend, baby; you know what that means,” one read. “It’s time to drink precisely one beer and call the ref a Tory.” It was joined by a collage of others: “Refugees Welcome,” a picture of Gisèle Pelicot with the words “Merci Beaucoup,” and “I Still Hate Thatcher.” The air smelled of beer and cigarettes.

棚看台上贴满了贴纸。“周末到了,宝贝;你知道这意味着什么,”一张贴纸上写着。“是时候喝恰好一杯啤酒,然后骂裁判是托利党了。”旁边是一整面拼贴:“欢迎难民”、吉赛尔·佩利科(Gisèle Pelicot)的照片配着“非常感谢”的字样,还有“我仍然恨撒切尔”。空气中弥漫着啤酒和香烟的味道。

By kickoff, around two hundred people had gathered in the Shed. They rubbed gloved hands together and unfurled flags. Others gripped plastic cups of golden beer and paper cups of Yorkshire tea. These were the fans known as the Krombacher Ultras, named for the German Pilsner served at the tea hut.

开球时,棚看台里已经聚集了大约两百人。他们搓着戴手套的手,展开旗帜。其他人握着盛满金黄啤酒的塑料杯和装着约克郡茶的纸杯。这些人就是被称为“克罗姆巴赫极端球迷”的群体,名字取自茶点小屋供应的德国皮尔森啤酒。

Then the whistle sounded. The Ultras bellowed rewritten lyrics to the Pogues’ “Dirty Old Town”—“Dirty Old Shed.” Fists battered the metal walls in time. A man called Hammo swung a large, tattered flag that bore a smoking skull in a flat cap.

然后哨声响了。极端球迷们吼唱着改编了歌词的波格斯乐队《肮脏的老城》——“肮脏的老棚”。拳头合着节拍砸向金属墙壁。一个叫哈莫的人挥舞着一面破旧的大旗,旗上画着一个戴着平顶帽的冒烟骷髅。

At West, the fans aren’t separated, and there are no cordons. The crowd polices itself. Steph had brought her daughter, Rowan, to a match when she was eight weeks old. “Rowan’s not going to think football is anything but attainable,” Steph said. “It’s not going to seem scary to see a crowd at football games.”

在西队,球迷不分隔,也没有警戒线。人群自我管理。斯蒂芙在女儿罗文八周大时就带她来看比赛了。“罗文不会觉得足球是遥不可及的东西,”斯蒂芙说。“在足球比赛中看到人群,对她来说不会显得可怕。”

The players feel it, Billy Matthews, a West forward who holds the club record for appearances, told me. “I wouldn’t really give a shit if I won the league with another team,” he said. “It’s like my people—like, the forty, fifty fans that have been there since I started playing there, who I still see every single game.”

球员们能感受到这一点,西队前锋、俱乐部出场纪录保持者比利·马修斯(Billy Matthews)告诉我。“如果我在别的球队拿了联赛冠军,我可能根本不在乎,”他说。“这里就像我的人——就是那四五十个从我一开始在这儿踢球就在的球迷,我每场比赛都还能看到他们。”

The Shed’s songs are not traditional football chants. They had revised the lyrics to “Lord of the Dance,” which was now a song about hummus and celery, an answer to Chorlton-cum-Hardy’s upper-middle-class reputation. They belted out Kylie Minogue’s “Can’t Get You Out of My Head.” (“You just can’t get me out of the Shed; North West Counties is all I think about.”) At one point, Con initiated a call-and-response: “Maggie, Maggie, Maggie? Dead, dead, dead.”

棚看台的歌曲不是传统的足球助威歌。他们把《舞之王》的歌词改了,现在唱的是一首关于鹰嘴豆泥和芹菜的歌曲,算是对乔尔顿-哈迪中上阶层名声的回应。他们高唱凯莉·米洛的《无法把你从脑海中抹去》。(“你就是没法把我从棚里弄走;西北诸郡联赛是我脑子里唯一想的事。”)有一次,康发起了一轮呼应:“玛吉,玛吉,玛吉?死了,死了,死了。”

Vinny arrived just after halftime. He had come from Old Trafford, where he had watched Manchester United beat Manchester City. (He may have walked away from Old Trafford, but he doesn’t miss a Manchester Derby.) He’d started at the pub around 8 A.M., then walked to the stadium. When he dropped his rucksack to the ground, it clinked with cans of Foster’s.

文尼在中场休息刚过时到了。他从老特拉福德赶来,在那里看了曼联击败曼城的比赛。(他也许从老特拉福德走人了,但曼市德比他一场不落。)他早上八点左右就开始在酒吧喝酒,然后走到球场。当他把背包扔到地上时,里面发出福斯特啤酒罐碰撞的叮当声。

Weeks earlier, Vinny had told me to look out for what happens when West scores. In the seventy-second minute, West went 1–0 up, with a free kick. People in the Shed jumped up, or at one another. They flung their cups into the air, because this sort of celebration needed both hands and all ten fingers. Under a golden arch of frothing German Pilsner, men and women and children scrambled to find a balance that they had happily lost.

几周前,文尼曾让我留意西队进球时会发生什么。第七十二分钟,西队凭借一记任意球取得1比0领先。棚看台里的人跳了起来,或者扑向彼此。他们把杯子抛向空中,因为这种庆祝需要两只手、十根手指全部用上。在冒着泡沫的德国皮尔森啤酒形成的金色拱门下,男人、女人和孩子在一片他们心甘情愿失去的平衡中手忙脚乱。

“Football to me is a religion, in the sense that it’s something you go and do,” Con told me. “You get up on a certain day, you put on the right garb, you go to the right place, you sing the right chants. You expel the right frustrations or adorations, surrounded by a group of people who believe the same thing as you, for a communal sense of belonging.”

“足球对我来说是一种宗教,意思是它是你去做的一件事,”康告诉我。“你在某一天起床,穿上正确的衣服,去正确的地方,唱正确的歌。你释放正确的沮丧或热爱,被一群和你相信同样东西的人包围着,获得一种共同的归属感。”

But the crowd was growing. The previous year, eighteen hundred people had showed up for West’s Boxing Day match. “It’s getting closer to the stuff you got away from,” Vinny said. West had the potential for promotion to a better league. Matt was unsure if he wanted it. “It’s a dream and a nightmare,” he said. Con called West “an unshaken temple in just a mess. Everything’s a mess now, and West isn’t.”

但人群在增长。前一年,有一千八百人来看西队的节礼日比赛。“这越来越接近你逃离的那些东西了,”文尼说。西队有升级到更高级别联赛的潜力。马特不确定自己是否想要。“这是梦想,也是噩梦,”他说。康把西队称为“一片混乱中一座不可动摇的圣殿。现在一切都乱糟糟的,而西队不是。”

The game ticked by. The Shed sang one of its favorite songs, to the tune of Pulp’s “Disco 2000”: “Let’s all meet up when the crowd’s two thousand; won’t it be strange when we’re all getting old?”

比赛一分一秒地过去。棚看台唱起了他们最爱的歌曲之一,用的是果浆乐队《迪斯科2000》的曲调:“等观众到两千的时候我们再相聚;等我们都老了,会不会觉得很奇怪?”

West won, 1–0. Vinny and I left the Shed. His rucksack was no longer clinking with cans, and we stumbled toward the clubhouse. He was grinning. “When you look back in time, you don’t really get that many where you go, ‘That was a good weekend,’ ” he said. “And that’s just football. That’s what football does. Football should be that.”

西队1比0获胜。文尼和我离开了棚看台。他的背包不再叮当作响,我们踉跄着朝会所走去。他咧着嘴笑。“回头看看,你其实没有多少个周末能说‘那是个好周末’,”他说。“而这就是足球。这就是足球该有的样子。足球就应该是这样。”

By the time Vinny went to meet up with other fans at the pub, it was pitch-black. “I could stand there when there’s no game, just with them people,” he had told me, “and look into an open space with no one playing football and just have a great time.” ♦

等文尼去酒吧和其他球迷会合时,天已经全黑了。“没有比赛的时候,我也可以站在那儿,就和那些人一起,”他之前告诉过我,“看着一片空荡荡的场地,没有人踢球,也能度过一段美好的时光。” ♦

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